Skip White Performance - We have the best prices you will ever find for aluminum heads, rotating assemblies and strokers
Skip White Performance
1910 Brookside Lane
Kingsport, TN 37660

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 423-722-5152

CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 350 355 STAGE 1.0 CRATE MOTOR ENGINE, ROLLER CAM 435 HP

$5,395.00

Available



Product Information

UPC371243980459
Product TypeShipped Product
Shipping Cost $385
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SBC CHEVY TURN KEY STAGE 1.0 355 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 425 HP STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON MID-GRADE PUMP GAS. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT CRANK & RODS, NKB ALUMINUM HEADS. HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM.

Pictured below is our turn key engine with the single plane intake. The second picture further down in the add shows it with the optional dual plane intake. We also offer these intakes with a polished finish as an upgrade.

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Introducing our Turn Key Stage 1.0 355 cid 425 HP engine.

The detailed build sheet is at the lower part of this listing, but we felt it important to summarize a few aspects about the parts used in this engine up front. Many of these parts are on the upper end of the scale as far as quality goes, considering this engine’s price range. The use of such high quality parts will determine not only the performance, but the endurance and reliability expected. An example of such parts used would be our Genuine Scat crank and Scat rods with ARP cap screws, forged Wiseco pistons made from 2618 aircraft alloy, Cloyes Race Billet timing components, Melling M-Select series oil pump, Champ oil pan with windage tray, and crank scraper, Comp brand roller rockers, PBM competition valves, ARP head bolts, rod bolts, and rocker studs, Comp 10 degree valve locks. All sealants used on the engine are Permatex, "The Right Stuff." Our engine builders all have a minimum of 20 years experience building very high level engines. Our company founder, Skip White, is also very knowledgeable on the proper combination of parts used to maximize drivability, performance, and reliability to suit your individual needs. We seldom ever have serious problems with the engines we build.

We know for a fact that most, if not all, of the similar cost engines on the market use very few, if any, of the higher end parts in their engines. Could it be possible that the higher end parts are not actually needed and their use is nothing more than "overkill?" We think not considering we do try to keep costs down to make our engines profitable and affordable.

Past experience tells us the use of these above average parts is very important if you want maximum performance, durability and reliability. Some lower cost parts used in many engines often fail early on, and perform poorly. So, please make a true comparison before making your decision on such an important purchase.

You may have noticed our Stage 2.0 383 engine in our other listings. It is a very popular engine, but we have had some customers that want to stay with the classic Chevy 350 engine.

Continue reading for the full description of this engine.

THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN.

THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.

Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold. Polished finish also available as an upgrade.

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Two year warranty; see details below.

This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.

The horse power numbers were achieved with our cam choice # 1 and with our single plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel Slayer 750 carb. Our test engine produced right at 425 HP at 6100 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range. We do not recommend the single plane intake on any car that is over approx. 3,250 lbs.

We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000.00 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.

One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.

Important Notice.

This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 100-110 GPH rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 90-100 GPH rated pump will suffice. It's best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.

The build sheet is as follows:

The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. This engine is bored and finish honed. All internals in this engine are 100% brand new.

The compression range will be approx. 10.3:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.3:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars.

This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. All machine work has been performed. Mains were line honed, cylinders are bored and torque plate honed, decks have been trued. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.

The blocks used for building our Stage 1.0 355 do have four bolt main caps.

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These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.

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As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block for those wanting to upgrade to a roller cam at a later date.

These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.

Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.

Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.

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Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042.

The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately 900 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-500 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.


We never used the early style blocks with 2 pc rear main seal to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime, and prone to oil leakage.


We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.

The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.

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As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This is not required for the 355 engine, but all of our blocks are done this way, and should you decide to upgrade in the future to a 383 this procedure will not have to be done.

OUR NKB-200 HEADS.

NKB aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 64cc with cnc'd combustion chambers. 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs.

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Our custom built NKB-200 aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs. These heads are not built by Procomp, and have no association with them in any way. We have sold over 1200 sets of these heads in the past year, and have seen zero problems. The performance is the best we have seen from a set of 200cc as cast heads.

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In the flowchart above, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow numbers, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market. We guarantee the flow numbers to be accurate, as well as the horsepower numbers produced by them.

Most importantly, all three of these heads were tested by the same person, on the same machine, (Superflo bench 1020) using the same testing method, on the same day. These numbers show the true difference between each brand, and that's what counts.

The difference in horsepower and torque generated by these new heads is monumental compared to the Procomp heads.

Here is a rundown on the hardware used in the NKB heads and the assembly process.

The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM Competition valves is $239

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We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our 383 and 406 engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.

The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.

The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.

According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.

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Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16

Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.

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COMP CAMS "POSITIVE STOP" VITON VALVE STEM SEALS. # 529-16

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Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.

We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.

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Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16

Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.

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Scat cast nodular steel crank, 3.48 stroke

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The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.

Crank Polishing.

Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks is at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below 10.

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Our CWT 5500 Balancer.

We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.

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Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.

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Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.

We now use the Clevite A series bearings in this engine.


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Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.

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We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.

We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.

Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.

WISECO 2618 FORGED PISTONS. FULL FLOATING WRIST PIN DESIGN WITH TWO VALVE RELIEFS.

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The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons, starting with the Pro-Tru Street version made with 4032 forged alloy. The next level up would be the Professional series that are much more expensive and made from 2618 aircraft alloy.

Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.


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Many street rod engine builders are now using a very low cost piston known as a hyper-eutectic piston, usually under the brand name of Speed Pro or Keith Black. We would not even consider using such pistons, because when they are subjected to detonation, they can fragment away from the rod, allowing the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head.


Those type pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but in our opinion should never be used in engines such as a 350/355 built above 350 HP. T

he forged pistons are much more resistant to heat, especially when made from the 2618 alloy. This alloy is also very strong. In the event that excessive detonation occurs beyond the limits of this piston, it will not fragment and allow the connecting rod to destroy your engine. The 2618 piston will withstand much higher temperatures than other alloys, like the common 4032 and especially the hyper-eutectic pistons, and will stay intact.

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Cam choice #1

INFO COMING SOON. THIS AD IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION

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Cam choice # 2

INFO COMING SOON. UNDER CONSTRUCTION

The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 310 would be acceptable with this cam. The bottom end power would be much better with this cam than the two other choices above.

This would be the only choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2,000 RPM in overdrive. A stall converter of 2,200 would be the minimum for this cam.

Do not choose the single plane Hurricane intake with this cam, as it would be totally impractical. Valve train life is extended greatly with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above.

If you need help in selecting a cam to suit your needs, feel free to contact our tech. department at 423-722-5152.

THE TWO CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD.

We have had a few customers who wanted to run this engine in a very heavy vehicle such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually, 4x4 quad cab truck, or Chevy Suburban. These vehicles weigh approx. 6,000 lbs or more. Even if you don't plan to do any towing or hauling heavy items, none of the three cams listed would be suitable for this.

We do have cams for such applications.

A tall gear would be acceptable with this setup, but some cars came equipped with a 273 final gear. This gear came into use in the mid 70's during the fuel crisis. This gear should not be used with any street rod engine. The tallest gear that should be used would be the more common 307.

If you're running a T350 trans, the tall gear would also allow for a decent highway cruising RPM range. If I were to choose this cam and had a medium to heavy car, I would go with a 323 to have decent off the line acceleration and comfortable highway cruising. You would still want the engine to run at approx. 1,800-2,000 RPM during highway cruising speed to keep the engine from loading up with carbon.

DELPHI ANTI PUMP-UP LIFTERS

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We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.

Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.

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Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.

You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.

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Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.

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Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.

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Pictured below are our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost, since the valve covers are included with this engine.

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RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.

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THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.

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OUR RETRO STYLE TALL FINNED VALVE COVERS HAVE BECOME VERY POPULAR. YOUR CHOICE.

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304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

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ARP HEAD BOLTS AND WASHERS

Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

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ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.

The timing components are the Cloyes Race Billet double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3

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We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. We use this exact set in our 421 and 427 SBC engines. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.

The cost on this setup is approx $129, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a fully array of lightening holes.

It may be overkill to use this expensive setup, but the attraction, besides being the most precise, is that it comes in three sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have too much tension in the chain. If the mains have been line bored or line honed, this can create a loose chain effect.

This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.

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Scorpion Race series 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend the 1.5 ratio for better low end response and extended valve train life.

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ONE OF THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.

We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished.

The rockers have a lifetime warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and may have an excessive amount of needle bearing clearance. The Scorpion does not have much of a loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures of our engines, these rockers should last a lifetime.

All Scorpion Rockers Feature:

Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined.

Important notice.

If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, and Comp Gold Arc rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.

Skip White

STAINLESS FLEXIBLE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK. BILLET ALUMINUM HANDLE.

Included with all our sbc engines.

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Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.

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The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.

Champ premium oil pan.

Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has a 5 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All of our engines will come with the Champ oil pan. We also offer the 8qt Champ pan as an optional upgrade. If your car will not allow the use of the large capacity Champ oil pan.

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We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.

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We use this premium studded mini nut set for oil pan and valve cover fasteners. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other builders. We use this set on all our engines.


Listed below are the items that are installed on the outside of the engine. These items are what make this a "Turn Key" engine.

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BILLET ALUMINUM BREATHER, AND PCV BREATHER.

Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. You may choose the breather/pcv setup pictured above or the exhaust evac. system. If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.

It would be fair to say that the fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level. The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil and combustion process.

Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high RPM to handle the blow by gases generated, especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake. Couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gases building up in the crankcase.

Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forced out of orifices and around gaskets are common with engines that are unable to rid themselves of excess crankcase pressure. On a stock low compression engine, the pcv system operates much better than on a street rod or race engine.

We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup will usually be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup. There is no up charge for the evac system. It requires a bit more work to install, but is relatively simple.

If you do choose the exhaust evac system there are few other recommendations I would like to make. The bullet style perforated mufflers such as those made by Magnaflow as well as many other companies must be used, and they sound the best in our opinion, but most importantly they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is one of the popular brands of the true straight through mufflers on the market, and there are several others. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. I find the 12-16 inch length to sound the best. These type mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, those are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.

Traditional chambered mufflers such as Flowmaster, creates a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. They say chambered mufflers help bottom end throttle response, and yes they do, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine. I can assure you the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, not to mention allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.

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BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.

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As you can see in the picture below, these timing pointers have a glove like fit.

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VERY IMPORTANT NOTE

If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.

Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.

It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.

If your engine is equipped with a manual trans. flywheel, there is no torque converter involved, and installing the starter with the engine on the stand and establishing ring gear clearance is a must. There is no need to bolt on the clutch pressure plate. The thick flywheel is flat and true without anything bolted onto it.

High volume polished aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality unit.

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120 AMP ONE WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AND ALUMINUM BRACKET KIT.

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WATER PUMP, CRANK, AND POWER STEERING PULLEY WITH BRACKETS, INCLUDED.

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If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, then you should opt for the full size HEI dist with the OE style cap, not the Super Cap. Both distributors are identical, but the OE style coil cover does allow a slight more firewall tunnel clearance. Some models may not even allow the use the OE style HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you may choose our small base Ready To Run HEI distributor. It has a small base and is identical in size to the original point style distributor. It will require the use of an externally mounted coil.

The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.

TAYLOR SPIRO PRO SERIES 8mm UNIVERSAL IGNITION WIRES, 90 DEGREE BOOTS AND OUR 65K VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR ARE INCLUDED.

The distributor will be installed in the engine.

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Features:

· Spiro-Pro 8mm Wire is the top choice of racers and enthusiasts due to its affordable value and overall high performance features.

· Spiro-Pro's two-layer 100% silicone inner core & outer jacket keeps the wires flexible for the life of your vehicle, maintaining its vibrant color with heat protection to 600º F.

· Taylor Cable’s Spiro-Pro wire consists of a high conductive spiral wound core with a Stainless Steel wire and covered with a fluorocarbon conductive material.

· Spiro-Pro features 350 ohms per foot resistance which provides more fire power to the spark plugs than OEM resistor core wires and has up to 10 times less resistance than standard resistor core wires.

· Spiro-Pro eliminates radio frequency interference (RFI) and is recommended when using a multi spark discharge, electronic ignition systems and other electronic components.

· Features Taylor Cable’s EXCLUSIVE low profile 100% silicone PROBOOTS® with vibration proof Stainless Steel double spring locking spark plug terminals.

· These are Universal Fit sets and will require cutting to fit, terminating, and booting the distributor end. Universal Fit sets are universal for most American made vehicles.

PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.

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Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.

INTERNALLY BALANCED, 6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.

1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.

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This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.

We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

HIGH QUALITY POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER.

We use Felpro seals and gaskets with our timing cover.

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Our new Stage 2.0 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees. You can never totally trust the accuracy of timing components. If you picked cam choice 4, you may run mid grade fuel. We use a slightly lower compression piston with that cam choice.

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

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IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING

For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 ex cab or quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, or one ton dually, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine. We can build this engine with a reduced compression ratio. We offer a special cam for such use at no additional cost if the truck is very heavy or is being used for towing.

None of the three cam choices we offer would be suitable for use in a very heavy truck. The intake choice would then have be the dual plane Crosswind. Single plane intakes do produce more top end horse power than the dual plane version, but they also move the torque band up higher in the RPM range. The dual plane Crosswind intake functions exactly as an Edlebrock RPM Airgap. Our Stage 2.0 engine comes with a three key way timing gear, and we do set it up in the middle, (straight up) position. You may experiment with this at some point to optimize your torque curve.

Ignition timing should be run at 30-32 rather than the more aggressive 33-35 degrees total when running this engine in heavy vehicles. The above changes would help move the torque band down lower in the RPM range. The HP numbers would fall to approx. 405-410 when coupled with our special order cam that has a profile for very heavy vehicles. Setup with such a cam the engine would have a very strong pull up to around 5,200 RPM.

This setup in a very heavy vehicle would be extremely durable, and you may even be able to run a mid-grade fuel as the compression ratio would be slightly below 10:1, but do this with caution, and listen for detonation (ping and clatter). Should you decide to have the engine built for heavy duty use, ask for cam part number 180315-10. The cost for any of the above would remain the same.

For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend the extra deep dish -20cc pistons with the 72cc heads regardless of the vehicle.

Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00.

We have dyno tested the original setup very extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.

WARRANTY INFORMATION


This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.

  • Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
  • Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
  • We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
  • Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
  • Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we arenot responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
  • In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
  • Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting the carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
  • If you are not satisfied with the cam, intake or carb you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
  • There is no additional charge for cam and intake swaps within the first 60 days of purchase.
  • If a carb is returned as a swap for an upgraded carb, you will receive full credit for the cost of the original carb towards the cost of the upgraded carb. If a carb is returned for credit or as a swap for a carb of equal value, a restocking fee will be charged or deducted from the cost of the returned carb.
  • Damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.

Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.

The carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.

Special note.

If you do think you will be driving significant numbers of miles, we strongly recommend going with our hydraulic roller cam package. The warranty on the hydraulic roller cam and valve train components is the same as the rest of the engine. See our other listings for info on all of our engines.

Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.

Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide. We recommend Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don't have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series are suitable.

The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 20w-50 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 40 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 20w-50 should not be used during winter weather.

Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.

You may run a 20w-50 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure.

Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.

There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

The anti foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.

We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.

The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.

Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe on the cam in these engines.

If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.

Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.

As for oil filters, we recommend AC Delco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.

Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don't recommend them. All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.

We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.

Filters in the micron range of 20-25 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.

In our Dart block, the Wiseco forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go a mild driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.

You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.

You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually the pcv system will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

If you decided on cam choice two or three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, the common pcv system will be included with this engine, and should do well with keeping crankcase pressures normal.

However, we believe that the best system is an exhaust evac system that is fed into the collector of your headers. You cannot use the exhaust evac system if you have chambered mufflers such as Flow Masters or any other brand of chambered muffler.

You may run the exhaust evac system if you have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system. This system will gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will usually seat faster.

One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks. You can choose the type of vent system you want with this engine at no additional charge.

The exhaust evac system has one serious drawback. The valves that connect into the headers have a somewhat short life, and when they fail, they could cause crankcase pressures to rise greatly. They must be checked regularly.

Educate yourself on these systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them. They are great systems but require frequent maintenance and replacement of the valves.

These valves are not expensive, and testing to see that they are working is very simple. Replacing them is also very easy. High mileage use or daily driving is impractical with this system, and the standard pcv system would be more suitable.

Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed. Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.

Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern.

Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.

If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE

This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use a System One reusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.

You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.

You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.

If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts.

If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 7.5-8 qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.

Tuning recommendations. Very important.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must.

If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.

A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.

You may try running the vacuum advance if you have our regular HEI in this engine. Cam choice 1 may not allow proper operation of this, but the smaller cams may work well. Be sure to run the vacuum line directly to your intake manifold. The vacuum advance is adjustable and we recommend that you try it out. If you feel the vac. advance is putting too much initial timing into the engine, you should be able to adjust some of this out of it. Our HEI units have an adjustable vac. advance. When setting the total timing, do not have the vac. advance hooked up. If you can bring your initial timing up from where it is at idle by running the vac. advance, the engine will operate tremendously better, have much better fuel mileage, and run cooler.

If you hear valve clatter (as it's called), then you need to try and adjust this out of the vac. advance. If valve clatter (pinging, as it's also known) is present under load, then you may not be able to run the vac. advance, but if the valve clatter is coming in around 3500 rpm or higher, then this could be a sign your total timing is set too high. Try backing it off a few degrees before giving up on the vac. advance. Valve clatter/pinging is actually the sound of the detonation occurring in the engine, and can be very damaging.

Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.


Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Very light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load. If you have chosen cam choice 3 or 4, we will reduce the compression ratio, and you may run mid-grade fuel, but we would prefer you run at premium grade fuel, especially during very hot weather.

Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.

Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.

Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.

You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with.

A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.

Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.

Never use pure antifreeze. A 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this.

If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.

Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.

When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.

If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.

If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.

Valve train maintenance.

Should you ever hear a change in sound on a solid roller setup, it is imperative that you address it immediately. If one or more of the rockers becomes loose, it could indicate something serious. If it’s a rocker that has loosened up on its own, and is left this way, it could be destructive in time.

Only allow a true hard core hot rodder to adjust the valve train, especially a solid roller setup. It will take about an hour to completely go over every rocker, and it is well worth doing after a season or less of running. Every year, we advise removing the intake and inspecting the complete roller lifter on any solid roller setup, as well as the pushrod ends, rocker seats and valve tips. Also check for broken outer or inner springs.

Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance free and very long lived compared to a solid roller setup.

Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Skip White

Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contact Misty at 423-722-5152.

THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.

Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

Transmission Recommendations

Your selection of what type transmission you’re going to use with your new engine is very important. I'm going to give you the real lowdown on what transmissions I recommend, as well as the ones I would stay away from. For those building a very mild, (detuned) street rod, (small cam choice, dual plane intake) these recommendations are not as critical.

700R4: Worst possible transmission choice.

Pros

  • None, other than there are plenty of them around for a cheap price, and for good reason.

  • Fuel injection does make this trans. more tolerable.

  • It will get you from point A to point B period!

Cons

  • Very wide first to second gear spread. First gear is a 3.06 ratio Second is a 1.62 ratio. This nearly equates to skipping from first to third gear with a manual trans. This kills acceleration when these trans go into second gear on a carbureted engine with a healthy cam and large runner intake manifold. Compare this to a TH350. First gear at 2.52 ratio and second gear is 1.52 do the math.

  • The 3.06 first gear is so low that any final gear of above 3.55 or numerically higher will have you right at the max rpm at around 35 mph, only to then have your car fall on its face when it hits second gear, feeling like it skipped a gear. Wheel spin is uncontrollable upon hard launches, unless you have a very tall final gear, and then you can for sure count on going nowhere quickly when second gear comes in. Overdrive would be totally useless at highway speed regardless of detuning with a tall final gear, unless you were cruising at around 100 mph.

  • Huge cost to build up to a decent street rod level. Don't even consider a stock rebuild to handle 500 hp or more. Under hard use, the 700R4 will fail quickly.

  • Limited as to what level these can be built up to. High performance transmission builders and parts suppliers don't even recognize this as a serious transmission.

  • More complex to build than a TH350 and far more expensive, especially when built up to handle high hp numbers.

  • Having to run a cumbersome throttle value cable to the carb. linkage. This feature actually serves a good purpose, but if not set properly, it can destroy your transmission quickly. Very critical adjustment, and often overlooked.

  • The overdrive is actually useless with engines running decent size cams relative to the cubic inch, especially with large runner dual plane intakes, and single plane intakes are out of the question with this trans.

  • Stall converters are double the cost of the one run in a TH350.

  • This is not a reliable transmission in a street rod.

  • Lowers the value of your vehicle to some degree, especially on high hp builds. These transmissions do not belong in most carbureted street rods. You must detune an engine considerably to operate the overdrive and be able to tolerate the first to second gear drop.

  • Could be classified as the worst mismatch of parts known on a true street rod.

  • As a side note, I would like to mention that most of us have owned a regular stock street car with a 700R4 trans, or its electronic likeness, a 4L60E, and didn't find much of an issue with the way they operated, especially if the vehicle was fuel injected. This is because stock car engines are designed to operate totally different in the very low rpm range. They have huge amounts of off idle torque compared to the average carbureted street rod that makes 425 hp or more. This off idle instant torque allows the vehicle to keep its speed up decently when the 700R4 drops into second gear, and the same low rpm also allows the overdrive gear to operate normally at very low rpm. There are other factors that also allow these trans. to operate at low rpm, especially on fuel injected computer driven engines.

TH350: Best transmission choice, hands down.

Pros

  • Excellent gear spread between all three gears.

  • Very low cost to build up to various levels of power handling.

  • Can be built up to extreme power handling capabilities.

  • Most all transmission shops are capable of building these to at least level 1 or 2.

  • No TV cable to deal with.

  • Stall converters are low in cost, and the selection is broad.

  • Very reliable and simple to repair if needed.

Cons

  • None, simply none! Select a final gear that will allow you the best overall performance and one that allows a decent off the line acceleration, and one that will be in a tolerable rpm range at highway speed. You must have the correct stall converter for optimal performance. This can make a huge difference in the way your vehicle accelerates.

  • These are becoming scarce, but there are still plenty of them around, and high performance parts are easily obtained.

  • You may have to go through this long story to your less than knowledgeable friends as to why you didn't choose a 700R4, and when you explain it to them, they may still think you don't know what you’re talking about.

TH400

Pros

  • Excellent gear spread. Very similar to a TH350.

  • Strong internal parts.

  • Reliable.

  • Simple to build or repair to stock buildup levels.

Cons

  • Very expensive to build up to higher power handling levels, as compared to a TH350. The TH350 has far more high performance parts available at reasonable costs. The 400 trans. is not a practical choice.

  • Internal rotating parts (cast iron drum) are very heavy and create a huge drag compared to most any other trans., and this is not a subtle amount of drag. The TH400 is well known to be a heavier duty trans. than a TH350 but this heavy duty factor was designed more for heavy vehicles that may encounter pulling heavy loads. Only the largest of the GM cars weighing around 5000 lbs had these trans. in them, along with heavy duty pickups, usually 3/4 ton or larger trucks. Even the half ton Chevy trucks didn't come with these in them.

  • They will certainly hold up better than a stock built TH350, but they are not a desirable trans. for a street rod. You can build a TH350 to level two that would be superior to any stock TH400 in every way for about the same cost. Building a TH400 to a high hp handling level will cost a great deal of money.

  • You will never see this trans in a true Pro-Street car.

Powerglide.

Pros

  • Excellent transmission to build up to just about any power handling level.

  • Most trans. shops are able to build this trans with ease.

  • Very reliable, and simple to work on. Not much to go wrong.

  • Decent first to second gear spread.

  • Rotational drag is very low with this trans., moreso than any automatic on the market. Very efficient trans.

  • Stall converters are not expensive and many choices available.

Cons

  • Two gears, that's the problem. This trans. can only be run in cars that have a very high hp to weight ratio. It would be fair to say a vehicle weighing approx. 3400 lbs would require an engine output of 1000 hp or more to make it a rational choice, and even then, you would still need a decent final gear to get things moving off the line. The first gear in these is somewhat tall. Those running a T-Bucket roadster weighing around 1800 lbs. with a 500 hp or higher engine could make great use of a Powerglide trans.

  • Having only two gears limits having the best of both worlds when it comes to off the line acceleration and cruising at highway speed.

GM200

Pros

  • Has a better gear spread than the 700R4 but not as optimal as the TH350.

  • Not much good to say about this trans. It certainly has a place in some special late model applications, but old school Chevy engines is not one of them.

Cons

  • This transmission can cost up to three times more to build up to a decent power handling level compared to a built up TH350.

  • Cannot hold up to high torque engine builds unless an enormous amount of money is spent on this trans.

  • Most all the cons you see for the 700R4 exist within this trans.

  • This trans is not a reliable trans. compared to any of the early GM trans.

4L60E Electronically controlled trans.

Pros

  • No TV cable to deal with or shifting linkage. It has pump pressure control and shifting via electronics.

  • Not much good to say about this expensive trans. It is virtually a 700R4 with a modern twist.

Cons

  • Most of the same issues as the 700R4. Terrible choice to run in an old school carbureted engine.

  • Very expensive to build up to a high power handling level. Can cost up to $4,000 to build this trans up to a decent level. Computer controlled engines may require this unless you bypass the car’s computer system.

  • Complex. Very complex!

  • Pointless to run such a terrible transmission.

  • If you insist on such a trans, the 4L80E is a better choice, as it has a normal gear spread, and is a much stronger trans. Still pointless to use with an old school carbureted engine.

Four and five speed Manual Trans.

Pros

  • Excellent acceleration at any speed due to many selective gear ratios. Finding a gear at any cruising speed to hit it hard is easily accomplished with a manual compared to an automatic.

  • More efficient delivery of horse power to the rear wheels with a manual trans. versus an automatic. In other words, less loss of power due to slippage as encountered with an automatic trans.

  • For some people, the fun factor of shifting gears is one of the high points of owning a street rod.

  • Very reliable, long lasting. Low maintenance. Simple to change out a clutch if needed.

Cons

  • Can be very expensive to purchase a high quality modern manual trans. and high performance clutch and flywheel, especially the Tremec Series.

  • Can be somewhat complex to change over from an auto to a manual trans.

  • If you think your car is going to run faster with a manual versus an auto, you will be greatly disappointed. The automatic transmission can not only shift much faster, but off line acceleration can be controlled to a much greater degree. This is why most drag cars have automatic transmissions. All things equal, a car equipped with an auto trans will outrun one equipped with a regular street rod manual with great ease.

  • Missing gears when racing can cause damage to your engine, and loss of control of your vehicle should you drop into the previous gear during an aggressive run. Been there a couple times, dropped a valve in brand new Lotus Esprit shifting out of second into first rather than third, and locked up the back wheels on a Dodge Viper shifting into second rather than fourth at high speed. Nearly lost control of the car at around 80 mph.

  • If you’re deciding to run a 5 or 6 speed manual trans because of the overdrive gear, be aware that most engines built with large lopey cams, and single plane intakes running a carb will usually not allow effective use of the overdrive gear.

  • Tremec T56 transmissions are very popular and highly advanced. They are expensive. They tend to be notchy to shift when new. Takes many miles before they become easy to shift. They can be difficult to install in some early model classic cars, as they are huge compared to early model transmissions. They can cost a great deal of money to rebuild if needed. Still about the best manual trans out there, and can handle very high hp levels.

  • Sadly, your wife may not be able to drive your car with a manual trans. This could be a plus in some cases.

A final note.

Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.

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