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CHEVY BBC 632 STAGE 9.5 TURN KEY ENGINE AFR HEADS DART BIG M BLOCK, 812 hp

$11,395.00

Available

1 customer review  



Product Information

UPC351636601009
Product TypeShipped Product
Shipping Cost $485
Number of reviews 1
BBC CHEVY HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM STAGE 9.5 TURN KEY 632 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 812 HP AT 5700 RPM
816 lb feet of torque at 4600 rpm.

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Distributor not included.

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RUNS ON PUMP GAS. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT 4340 FORGED CRANK AND H-BEAM RODS, DART BIG M SPORTSMAN BLOCK, AFR 345cc ALUMINUM HEADS

This engine uses a tall deck block, (10.200)

This engine comes fully dressed out on the front as pictured above. The carb, distributor, wires and starter are not included with this engine. We have those items available in our other listings.

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The colored bolt caps shown on the engine are not included. We offer the bolt caps for sale in our other listings.
The ARP head bolts have an attractive black oxide finish on them, with the branded ARP logo on each bolt, and the intake bolts are made from a high grade semi polished stainless steel and have an allen head socket design. Many people prefer the engine without the colored bolt caps, so we have decided to not include them any longer.

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FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN

Introducing our Stage 9.5 Hydraulic Roller cam, 812 hp at 5700 rpm engine. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. This engine is designed for high performance street rodding or long term cruising and heavy hauling or towing, depending on cam and intake choice.

We also offer this engine in a Pro-Street version that produces right at 900 horse power.

This engine is tuned to deliver max torque at a very low rpm and make all of its available power at 5700 or less rpm. Pump gas friendly. This engine will deliver very impressive power in the lower rpm range, and have a very high degree of drivability and longevity.

For those wanting this engine for use in heavy duty trucks, and for hauling, let us set you up with the correct cam, intake, and compression ratio.

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Two year warranty, see details below.

This engine uses a brand new Dart Big M Sportsman block, with a tall (10.200) deck height, with all new internals.

This engine is designed to have a very high level of drivability, or street manners.

We have displayed many pictures of this engine at various angles. The turn key package looks great at any angle.

Below is a straight down image.

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Here are a few good reasons why we think the Stage 9.5 engine is a better choice than any of the 572's on the market.

1. The Stage 9.5 bbc engine will accelerate any heavy car much better than any of the 572's.

2. The exhaust note from this big block engine is deeper than that of the typical 572 engines on the market.

3. Installing this engine in heavy cars or trucks without killing acceleration, or having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus. This engine will accelerate heavy vehicles much better than any of the smaller cubic inch bbc engines on the market.

4. Low maintenance and high drivability , while generating up to 812 hp with only a slight increase in cost of building a 572 engine.

5. Longevity and reliability. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built like this up to 5,800 rpm. The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable and will not require a bronze distributor gear, as it has a normal cast gear.

6. Should you ever decide to sell your car or truck with this engine, the resale value would be much greater.

We do a full test run using an engine test mule on every engine we build. The engine is run for two intervals of 20 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you receive the engine, it will be ready to install and run. We also include an engine stand as pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.

As of 10/25/2016, we completed installation of our second brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. This dyno is dedicated for dyno testing and tuning on our bbc engine line only.

De-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos will move the torque into the low rpm range, and is very desirable if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all-out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better. We can help you with a cam and intake selection that best suits your needs.

The compression range will be approx. 10.35:1 depending on how we set it up based on your needs. The Wiseco forged pistons are highly resistant to the damaging effects of detonation.

The build sheet is as follows:

Pictured below is the new Dart Big M Sportsman block. This block is the absolute ultimate in quality, durability, and value.

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Dart Block Specs. and features.

- Tall 10.200" deck ht.
- Siamesed extra thick cylinder walls to resist cracking and improve ring seal (minimum .300" thick with 4.625" bore).
- Uses +.300" tall Gen VI style lifters.
- Scalloped outer water jacket walls improve coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.
- 4 bolt ductile iron main caps have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.
- True priority main oil system lubricates the main bearings before the lifters.
- Oil filter pad is drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.
- Lifter valley head stud bosses prevent blown head gaskets.
- Rear main cap uses standard oil pump and two piece seal - no adapter required!
- Mechanical fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts, and side and front motor mounts simplify installation in any chassis.
- Dual oil pan bolt patterns fit standard and notched oil pans.

The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.

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We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.

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We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.

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We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.

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The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.

Below are the specs of the rotating assembly portion of this engine.

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The picture above is a file photo of the rotating assembly that comes with this engine. See the detailed info below for the actual pictures and items included in this engine.

Fully balanced in house.

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Crankshaft Specs.

  • Crankshaft: Genuine Scat
  • Crankshaft Stroke: 4.750"
  • Crankshaft Material : 4340 Forged Alloy.
  • Journal Diameter: STD BBC
  • Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS
Connecting Rod Specs.
  • Rods: Genuine Scat
  • Rod Type: Scat H-Beam
  • Rod Length: 6.700"
  • Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
  • Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 2000 Cap Screws.
Piston & Ring Specs.
  • Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
  • Piston Size: 4.600"
  • Dome Volume: -7.5cc Dish Top. Comp. Ratio will be right at 10.35:1
  • Compression Height: 1.115
  • Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
  • Piston Rings: Mahle High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
  • Ring Size: 1/16 1/16 3/16 File Fit
  • Ring Material: Ductile/Stainless/Moly
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
  • Main Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
  • Rod Bearings: Clevite HP High Performance Series.
  • Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
  • Damper: Pro-Race brand SFI 7.0"
  • Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available.
Listed below is a complete breakdown of all the parts that are included in this engine.

WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.

The pistons used in this engine are a -7.5cc Dish Top.

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The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons, starting with the Pro-Tru Street version made with 4032 forged alloy. The next level up would be the Professional series that are much more expensive and made from 2618 aircraft alloy.

Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.

We have seen a few engine builders use the non-forged hypereutectic pistons, and we find them to be very risky for any carbureted street rod engine. We would not even consider using such pistons. If the pistons are non-forged or forged 4032 alloy, they may fragment from the effects of detonation. This can then allow the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head. Those types of pistons are fine for stock or very mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels. These type of pistons, especially the hypereutectic version, will not stand much detonation. The forged 2618 alloy piston is so much more resistant to the effects of detonation, and heat.

Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.

Our custom made Wiseco pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller than nearly all catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.

Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the new Dart block to achieve a zero deck. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing and still not ending too far below stock deck height. On our bbc engines we actually leave the piston about .003 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock.


Since nearly all bbc catalog pistons on the market sit .020 below the surface of a virgin block, the only way to achieve a zero deck or close to it would be to cut approx. .020 off the deck surface. This compromises the integrity of the block, in our opinion.


Another good feature of our taller compression height is that the ring land above the top ring is much stronger by being .010 thicker. When pistons encounter the effects of detonation, it is not uncommon to see pistons with the ring land above the top ring broken off. The thicker ring land also makes a better heat sink.

You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.

Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy. We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.

Why go with 2618 forged pistons? If you encounter certain tuning issues, detonation is highly probable, and its effects can cause severe damage to your engine. The 2618 forged piston is able to withstand the damaging effects from detonation to a higher degree than the lower cost 4032 forged pistons, especially non-forged hypereutectic pistons such as Speed Pro or Keith Black, and many others.

We have built approximately 3500 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor has there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.

The pictures below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons.

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Scat 4340 Forged Crankshaft.

The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.

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Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft supplied with this assembly:

The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.

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Our choice of rods are the Genuine Scat brand heavy duty 6.700 H-beam rods with ARP 2000 cap screws.

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We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.

We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.

Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.

Genuine ARP 2000 cap screws.

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MAHLE HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS

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We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.

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PRO RACE BRAND SFI HARMONIC DAMPER, 7.0 DIAMETER INCLUDED.

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Pro-Race brand dampers are used on all of our engines.

We have noticed others using a low grade knockoff brand damper/balancer, and we have encountered them in the past. They are substandard in appearance, and are often out of spec. The timing marks were also poorly marked on some of the balancers we have come across. Another problem with low grade dampers is the elastomer bonding can lose its adherence to the inner and outer structure. This problem is referred to as a slipped damper. We have only encountered this once in 10 years with the Pro-Race brand dampers.

We know of several competitors including these balancers on their engines. The Pro Race brand is far superior to most any we have ever seen. They were once known as a knockoff product, and have become one the best values on the market, without compromising quality whatsoever.

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.

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This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.

We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.

Crank Polishing.

Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks is at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below 10.

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Our CWT 5500 Balancer.

We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your assembly.

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Three CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.

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Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.

AFR aluminum cylinder heads. 345cc runner size.

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Fel Pro 1057 premium race grade series head gaskets, ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

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EDELBROCK SUPER VICTOR BBC TALL DECK (10.2") INTAKE MANIFOLD FOR BBC CHEVY # 2916

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We are offering three cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.


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Cam Choice # 1 By Comp Cams.

Part number: 01-000-8 Special Grind.

615/615 lift.

260/266 duration

112 lobe sep.

Peak advertised hp of 812 would come in around 5,800 rpm. A 2250-2500 stall converter is recommended for better acceleration when using this cam and a final gear of 3.30 or higher is all that is needed. With our single plane intake, this cam will achieve the advertised horse power. The carb used on our dynoed test engine was a 1050 Dominator. We also tried this setup with a Quick Fuel Q-1050 and horse power only dropped to 790. Drivability with the Q-Series carb would be much better than the Dominator carb. Cam lope is somewhat radical at idle. This cam offers decent drivability, but should not be used in very heavy vehicles such as 4x4 trucks.


Below are our dyno results on one of our 632 engines with cam choice # 1 with a single plane intake. You results may vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will always improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.

Official Dyno report on our 632 engine with cam choice #1 and a single plane intake. This engine setup has a high level of drivability. The cam is only 615/615 lift, with a 112 lobe sep. hyd. roller.

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Cam choice # 1 and a single plane intake.

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Cam Choice # 2 By Comp Cams.

Part number: 01-461-8

575/575 lift.

254/260 duration

112 lobe sep.

Cam choice # 2 offers increased drivability and improved low end power, with very little sacrifice of the max power as compared to cam choice # 1, a 15 hp decrease at the most. The torque numbers will remain nearly the same and come in approximately 100 rpm lower compared to cam choice # 1. Valve train stability and longevity is increased with this cam. This cam is recommended for use in vehicles with tall gearing, and sport trucks that may encounter light hauling. Max power will be achieved at approx. 5650 rpm. You may use the single plane intake with this cam and not affect the low end power to any noticeable amount.

By using cam choice # 2, your valve train will be much more reliable and longevity is certainly improved. Cam choice # 2 will allow you to run a stall converter in the 2000 rpm range. Final gearing when used in a car or sport truck could actually be in the 3.20 range or even taller, and overdrive use is possible. Mileage with taller gearing is also a plus. This cam would be most suitable in heavy vehicles weighing up to 5500 lbs. Drivability with this cam is excellent. This cam will also develop enough vacuum to operate power brakes.

Official Dyno report on our 632 engine with cam choice #2, AFR heads, and a single plane intake. This setup has our 575 lift cam in it with a 112 lobe sep. The low end torque numbers would allow this engine to operate in any size vehicle without the use of a low gear or high stall converter. Basically a true torque monster with the street manners that would allow daily driving without the drama, yet producing close to 800 hp. at 5700 rpm.

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Cam Choice # 3 By Comp Cams.

Part number: 01-424-8

540/560 lift.

242/248 duration

110 lobe sep.

Cam choice # 3 offers a huge amount of bottom end torque. This cam selection is the best choice for cars that have very tall gearing or overdrive transmissions. This cam will allow the engine to operate in the 1800 rpm range. A stall converter of around 2000 rpm is recommended.
Very good acceleration with excellent street manners. The peak horse power falls about 15-20 under cam choice # 2. This cam would also be excellent for heavy vehicles, quad cab 4x4 pickups. Max power is achieved at approx. 5500 or less. This cam has been very popular for those more concerned about drivability and outright longevity of the valve train and engine engine. The valve train wear with this cam would be very low. Off idle power is decent. We see no drawbacks to going with this cam. The power in the low rpm range is amazing. Vacuum should be more enough for operating power brakes. Long range cruising and operating air conditioning is not an issue with this cam.

HOWARDS MAX EFFORT LIFTERS & HOWARDS CHROMOLY PUSHRODS.

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We use Howards brand premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.

Our choice of lifters are the Howards brand Max Effort tie bar lifters. These lifters are much costlier than the regular tie bar roller lifters, and have many unique features. If you select cam choice 3, we will use the regular Howards tie bar street rod lifters.

We have several different options in valve covers. Here are our most common choices:

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The finned valve covers are an excellent choice for the classic Chevy muscle cars.

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Billet Aluminum Breather set.

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If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.

After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.

We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.

If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.

Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.

BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.

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304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

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Timing components: Cloyes Race Billet double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3

Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.

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We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.

The cost on this high end timing set is approx $141, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a full array of lightening holes.

This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.

SCORPION RACING ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS.

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THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.

Our bbc 632 engines use the Scorpion Endurance Series rockers, which are the top of the line. We use them instead of the regular Race Series Scorpion rockers because they weigh 496 grams less per set. This is a monumental difference when it comes to valve train weight. They cost considerably more than the regular race series Scorpion rockers, but the increased performance and reduced burden on the valve train is well worth it.

We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished.

The rockers have a lifetime warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and may have an excessive amount of needle bearing clearance. The Scorpion does not have much of a loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures of our engines, these rockers should last a lifetime.

The potential for valve float under high rpm is a real issue with most high performance engines using hydraulic roller components. By reducing the weight on valve train components, you also considerably reduce the possibility of valve float as well as wear and tear on the valve train components.

The significant reduction in weight of valve train components will dramatically increase the life of every moving part in the valve train. Since some of our cam choice options are large, and these engines may be driven many miles, we see this reduction in weight as absolutely necessary. The lighter weight components do not reduce the durability of these items; on the contrary, they improve durability significantly. These components are high quality, so the weight reduction in their construction does not compromise them in the least.

All Scorpion Rockers Feature:

Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined.

Important notice.

If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, and Comp Gold Arc rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.

Skip White

Champ premium oil pan.

The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.

This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know and we can use the stock style pan.

The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.

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The quality of these pans far exceeds any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.

Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, and is far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.

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Genuine Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets are used on all of our engines.

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Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.

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The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.

Pictured below are the front end accessories that are included with this engine. They will be installed on the engine.

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This is our polished high volume long style water pump with aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality pump.

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Our 120 amp chrome plated one or three wire alternator.

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Stainless socket head bolt set with stainless washers.

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Polished billet aluminum alternator bracket.

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We are confident that the price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition. If you have any application or technical questions, feel free to email or call us at 423-722-5152.

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

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WARRANTY INFORMATION


This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.

  • Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
  • Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
  • We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
  • Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.
  • Should a problem occur in the first year of the warranty that we determine can be repaired by you or a qualified repair shop, upon our written approval, we will pay for the repair based on our in-house hourly rates for labor and our estimate of a reasonable amount of time to make the repair with the engine on a stand as you received it. To be specific, due to the difficulty of accessing certain engine parts in some vehicles, we are not responsible for the additional time and labor costs you may incur in removing and replacing such parts.
  • In the second year, the warranty will cover all parts minus any labor to remove and install needed parts. The cost of shipping the engine to us is not covered in the second year of warranty.
  • Tuning or maintenance are not covered under the warranty. Tuning includes jetting or adjusting your carb, ignition timing, or readjusting the rockers. Tuning would also include changing out plugs to optimize temp range for your needs. Setting ignition timing is also considered tuning. You must check the timing on this engine before it is driven.
  • If you are not satisfied with the cam or intake you have chosen, we will exchange any of these items. You will pay for shipping and any required labor.
  • There is no additional charge for cam and intake swaps within the first 60 days of purchase.
  • Damage due to detonation or extreme abuse will not be covered by the warranty. Detonation damage is evident upon removal of the cyl. heads.

Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.

You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.

Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.

Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.

Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.

This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.

Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide. We highly recommend Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don't have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series in the light silver bottle is suitable.

The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 10w-40 or 15w-40 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 30 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 15w-40 should not be used during very cold winter weather.

Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.

If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.

You may permanently run a 15w-40 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure. It is recommended that your first run of oil should be the 15w-40 weight. This allows a greater amount of protection to the engine during the initial break-in period.

Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.

There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.

The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.

This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 130 gph rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 110 gph rated pump will suffice. It's best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system. If you decide to run a high volume mechanical fuel pump on this engine, then you must use the special polymer fuel pump rod, and you must also use a fuel pressure regulator, and gauge, set to approx. 6.0-6.5 psi. Only use engine oils with zinc compounds in them when running a mechanical fuel pump. This will protect the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the camshaft. We strongly recommend the Valvoline Racing oil, (silver bottle series). See our other listings for this oil.

If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.

Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.

As for oil filters, we recommend AC Delco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.

Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don't recommend them. All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.

We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.

Filters in the micron range of 20-25 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.

In our Dart block, the Wiseco forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours pistons are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go at a normal driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.

You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.

You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase, and we do supply this with the engine. You will have two choices. Usually the pcv system will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well.

Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed. Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.

Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern.

Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.

If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE

This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use a System One reusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.

You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.

You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.

If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts. of oil.

If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs, then you will use approx. 7.5-8 qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.

Tuning recommendations. Very important.

You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must.

If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.

If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.

A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.

The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.

You may try running the vacuum advance if you have our regular HEI in this engine. Cam choice 1 may not allow proper operation of this, but the smaller cams may work well. Be sure to run the vacuum line directly to your intake manifold. The vacuum advance is adjustable and we recommend that you try it out. If you feel the vac. advance is putting too much initial timing into the engine, you should be able to adjust some of this out of it. Our HEI units have an adjustable vac. advance. When setting the total timing, do not have the vac. advance hooked up. If you can bring your initial timing up from where it is at idle by running the vac. advance, the engine will operate tremendously better, have much better fuel mileage, and run cooler.

If you hear valve clatter (as it's called), then you need to try and adjust this out of the vac. advance. If valve clatter (pinging, as it's also known) is present under load, then you may not be able to run the vac. advance, but if the valve clatter is coming in around 3500 rpm or higher, then this could be a sign your total timing is set too high. Try backing it off a few degrees before giving up on the vac. advance. Valve clatter/pinging is actually the sound of the detonation occurring in the engine, and can be very damaging.

Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.


Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Very light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load. If you have chosen cam choice 3 or 4, we will reduce the compression ratio, and you may run mid-grade fuel, but we would prefer you run at premium grade fuel, especially during very hot weather.

Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.


Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.

Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.

You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with.

A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.

Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.

Never use pure antifreeze. A 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 850-900, and never too far below this.

If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.

Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.

Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.

When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.

If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.

If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.

Valve train maintenance.

Hydraulic roller cams are virtually maintenance free compared to a flat tappet setup.

Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.

Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.

Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.

However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.

Skip White

Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contact Misty at 423-722-5152.

THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.

Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.

Transmission Recommendations

Your selection of what type transmission you’re going to use with your new engine is very important. I'm going to give you the real lowdown on what transmissions I recommend, as well as the ones I would stay away from. For those building a very mild, (detuned) street rod, (small cam choice, dual plane intake) these recommendations are not as critical.

700R4: Worst possible transmission choice.

Pros

  • None, other than there are plenty of them around for a cheap price, and for good reason.

  • Fuel injection does make this trans. more tolerable.

  • It will get you from point A to point B period!

Cons

  • Very wide first to second gear spread. First gear is a 3.06 ratio Second is a 1.62 ratio. This nearly equates to skipping from first to third gear with a manual trans. This kills acceleration when these trans go into second gear on a carbureted engine with a healthy cam and large runner intake manifold. Compare this to a TH350. First gear at 2.52 ratio and second gear is 1.52 do the math.

  • The 3.06 first gear is so low that any final gear of above 3.55 or numerically higher will have you right at the max rpm at around 35 mph, only to then have your car fall on its face when it hits second gear, feeling like it skipped a gear. Wheel spin is uncontrollable upon hard launches, unless you have a very tall final gear, and then you can for sure count on going nowhere quickly when second gear comes in. Overdrive would be totally useless at highway speed regardless of detuning with a tall final gear, unless you were cruising at around 100 mph.

  • Huge cost to build up to a decent street rod level. Don't even consider a stock rebuild to handle 500 hp or more. Under hard use, the 700R4 will fail quickly.

  • Limited as to what level these can be built up to. High performance transmission builders and parts suppliers don't even recognize this as a serious transmission.

  • More complex to build than a TH350 and far more expensive, especially when built up to handle high hp numbers.

  • Having to run a cumbersome throttle value cable to the carb. linkage. This feature actually serves a good purpose, but if not set properly, it can destroy your transmission quickly. Very critical adjustment, and often overlooked.

  • The overdrive is actually useless with engines running decent size cams relative to the cubic inch, especially with large runner dual plane intakes, and single plane intakes are out of the question with this trans.

  • Stall converters are double the cost of the one run in a TH350.

  • This is not a reliable transmission in a street rod.

  • Lowers the value of your vehicle to some degree, especially on high hp builds. These transmissions do not belong in most carbureted street rods. You must detune an engine considerably to operate the overdrive and be able to tolerate the first to second gear drop.

  • Could be classified as the worst mismatch of parts known on a true street rod.

  • As a side note, I would like to mention that most of us have owned a regular stock street car with a 700R4 trans, or its electronic likeness, a 4L60E, and didn't find much of an issue with the way they operated, especially if the vehicle was fuel injected. This is because stock car engines are designed to operate totally different in the very low rpm range. They have huge amounts of off idle torque compared to the average carbureted street rod that makes 400 hp or more. This off idle instant torque allows the vehicle to keep its speed up decently when the 700R4 drops into second gear, and the same low rpm also allows the overdrive gear to operate normally at very low rpm. There are other factors that also allow these trans. to operate at low rpm, especially on fuel injected computer driven engines.

TH350: Best transmission choice, hands down.

Pros

  • Excellent gear spread between all three gears.

  • Very low cost to build up to various levels of power handling.

  • Can be built up to extreme power handling capabilities.

  • Most all transmission shops are capable of building these to at least level 1 or 2.

  • No TV cable to deal with.

  • Stall converters are low in cost, and the selection is broad.

  • Very reliable and simple to repair if needed.

Cons

  • None, simply none! Select a final gear that will allow you the best overall performance and one that allows a decent off the line acceleration, and one that will be in a tolerable rpm range at highway speed. You must have the correct stall converter for optimal performance. This can make a huge difference in the way your vehicle accelerates.

  • These are becoming scarce, but there are still plenty of them around, and high performance parts are easily obtained.

  • You may have to go through this long story to your less than knowledgeable friends as to why you didn't choose a 700R4, and when you explain it to them, they may still think you don't know what you’re talking about.

TH400

Pros

  • Excellent gear spread. Very similar to a TH350.

  • Strong internal parts.

  • Reliable.

  • Simple to build or repair to stock buildup levels.

Cons

  • Very expensive to build up to higher power handling levels, as compared to a TH350. The TH350 has far more high performance parts available at reasonable costs. The 400 trans. is not a practical choice.

  • Internal rotating parts (cast iron drum) are very heavy and create a huge drag compared to most any other trans., and this is not a subtle amount of drag. The TH400 is well known to be a heavier duty trans. than a TH350 but this heavy duty factor was designed more for heavy vehicles that may encounter pulling heavy loads. Only the largest of the GM cars weighing around 5000 lbs had these trans. in them, along with heavy duty pickups, usually 3/4 ton or larger trucks. Even the half ton Chevy trucks didn't come with these in them.

  • They will certainly hold up better than a stock built TH350, but they are not a desirable trans. for a street rod. You can build a TH350 to level two that would be superior to any stock TH400 in every way for about the same cost. Building a TH400 to a high hp handling level will cost a great deal of money.

  • You will never see this trans in a true Pro-Street car.

Powerglide.

Pros

  • Excellent transmission to build up to just about any power handling level.

  • Most trans. shops are able to build this trans with ease.

  • Very reliable, and simple to work on. Not much to go wrong.

  • Decent first to second gear spread.

  • Rotational drag is very low with this trans., moreso than any automatic on the market. Very efficient trans.

  • Stall converters are not expensive and many choices available.

Cons

  • Two gears, that's the problem. This trans. can only be run in cars that have a very high hp to weight ratio. It would be fair to say a vehicle weighing approx. 3400 lbs would require an engine output of 1000 hp or more to make it a rational choice, and even then, you would still need a decent final gear to get things moving off the line. The first gear in these is somewhat tall. Those running a T-Bucket roadster weighing around 1800 lbs. with a 500 hp or higher engine could make great use of a Powerglide trans.

  • Having only two gears limits having the best of both worlds when it comes to off the line acceleration and cruising at highway speed.

GM200

Pros

  • Has a better gear spread than the 700R4 but not as optimal as the TH350.

  • Not much good to say about this trans. It certainly has a place in some special late model applications, but old school Chevy engines is not one of them.

Cons

  • This transmission can cost up to three times more to build up to a decent power handling level compared to a built up TH350.

  • Cannot hold up to high torque engine builds unless an enormous amount of money is spent on this trans.

  • Most all the cons you see for the 700R4 exist within this trans.

  • This trans is not a reliable trans. compared to any of the early GM trans.

4L60E Electronically controlled trans.

Pros

  • No TV cable to deal with or shifting linkage. It has pump pressure control and shifting via electronics.

  • Not much good to say about this expensive trans. It is virtually a 700R4 with a modern twist.

Cons

  • Most of the same issues as the 700R4. Terrible choice to run in an old school carbureted engine.

  • Very expensive to build up to a high power handling level. Can cost up to $4,000 to build this trans up to a decent level. Computer controlled engines may require this unless you bypass the car’s computer system.

  • Complex. Very complex!

  • Pointless to run such a terrible transmission.

  • If you insist on such a trans, the 4L80E is a better choice, as it has a normal gear spread, and is a much stronger trans. Still pointless to use with an old school carbureted engine.

Four and five speed Manual Trans.

Pros

  • Excellent acceleration at any speed due to many selective gear ratios. Finding a gear at any cruising speed to hit it hard is easily accomplished with a manual compared to an automatic.

  • More efficient delivery of horse power to the rear wheels with a manual trans. versus an automatic. In other words, less loss of power due to slippage as encountered with an automatic trans.

  • For some people, the fun factor of shifting gears is one of the high points of owning a street rod.

  • Very reliable, long lasting. Low maintenance. Simple to change out a clutch if needed.

Cons

  • Can be very expensive to purchase a high quality modern manual trans. and high performance clutch and flywheel, especially the Tremec Series.

  • Can be somewhat complex to change over from an auto to a manual trans.

  • If you think your car is going to run faster with a manual versus an auto, you will be greatly disappointed. The automatic transmission can not only shift much faster, but off line acceleration can be controlled to a much greater degree. This is why most drag cars have automatic transmissions. All things equal, a car equipped with an auto trans will outrun one equipped with a regular street rod manual with great ease.

  • Missing gears when racing can cause damage to your engine, and loss of control of your vehicle should you drop into the previous gear during an aggressive run. Been there a couple times, dropped a valve in brand new Lotus Esprit shifting out of second into first rather than third, and locked up the back wheels on a Dodge Viper shifting into second rather than fourth at high speed. Nearly lost control of the car at around 80 mph.

  • If you’re deciding to run a 5 or 6 speed manual trans because of the overdrive gear, be aware that most engines built with large lopey cams, and single plane intakes running a carb will usually not allow effective use of the overdrive gear.

  • Tremec T56 transmissions are very popular and highly advanced. They are expensive. They tend to be notchy to shift when new. Takes many miles before they become easy to shift. They can be difficult to install in some early model classic cars, as they are huge compared to early model transmissions. They can cost a great deal of money to rebuild if needed. Still about the best manual trans out there, and can handle very high hp levels.

  • Sadly, your wife may not be able to drive your car with a manual trans. This could be a plus in some cases.

A final note.

Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.

We are often asked if the Dart Sportsman block is able to handle high horse power builds. If you're building this for street and strip applications, then this block will handle most any build-up you do. 1200-1500 hp builds are not uncommon with this block. Durability and longevity with high horsepower builds are not a problem with the Dart Sportsman block. Nos, twin turbo, blower, high compression builds are also not a problem. The Dart Sportsman block should last a lifetime, even if built up to 1200 hp. You will also find this block used in many marine applications.

We have displayed many pictures of this engine at various angles. The turn key package looks great at any angle.

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This engine uses a long style water pump. It is a much better design than the early model short style water pump. If you are unable to run the long style water pump due to interference issues with your radiator, let us know. Most vehicles will allow the use of the long style water pump as it only protrudes approx. 3/4 of an inch more than the short style.

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Below is a somewhat straight down image. This is what you would see looking down into the engine bay. This is a very straightforward setup. Simple to work on or change and adjust belts or any of the accessories.

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The images below show what the engine looks like before the front dress up kit is installed.

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Note from Skip White, President.

We have the most advanced machinery available on the market. Our Centroid DRX block and decking machine cost $80,000. We torque plate hone the cylinder walls using a state of the art Sunnen SV10 diamond hone. Very few shops have this model. It not only produces a superior bore finish that allows a faster break-in time, but it also creates a very straight and uniform finish with virtually no distortion or variance in the cyl. walls. This machine cost us approx. $60,000. Most of the very high end engine builders are now using this model.

Many of our customers have asked if they can tour our shop before buying an engine, and we certainly welcome this. Pictured below are some of the many machines we have in action.

Do feel free to ask any questions you have about this engine. Our tech support line is 423-722-5152 or email us your questions using the contact tab associated with this ad.



NOTE: It is very important that you save your engine crate in the event that you need to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives, be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and take pictures while the driver is present if possible. This will assist us in making a claim for damages. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible, but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines. Please inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any damage.

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