SBC CHEVY 350 383 NKB-200cc ALUMINUM HEADS 64cc STRAIGHT PLUG NKB-274
$839.00
Description
NKB 200cc/64cc ULTRA HIGH FLOW CYLINDER HEADS,
STRAIGHT PLUG, FOR SBC CHEVY 327 350, 355 383 ENGINES.
Setup for hydraulic roller cams.
200cc RUNNERS, 64cc COMBUSTION CHAMBERS.
WE ALSO OFFER THESE HEADS WITH 60cc COMBUSTION CHAMBERS.
Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one “Skip White.” We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article in the lower part of this ad for a more detailed explanation.
THE BEST FLOWING, BEST QUALITY SBC ALUMINUM HEADS ON THE MARKET FOR THE MONEY.
This sale is for one fully assembled set of heads (2 heads).
The springs in these heads are set up to operate with hydraulic roller cams up to .600 lift. For those running hyd. flat tappet cams, see our other listings for these heads with the part number NKB-200-272.
The NKB aluminum heads have 64cc combustion chambers with 200cc runners, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves. These heads are not built by Procomp, and have no association with them in any way.
PART NUMBER # NKB-274
Our cylinder heads are made from AC4B alloy and tempered to T6 standards. Details about this alloy are in the lower section of this ad.
We certainly know where to draw the line with low end products, and we continue to eliminate parts that we once accepted but that eventually had problems. Sometimes it’s not that a particular product has had a problem that leads to its elimination; something better just comes along. The NKB cylinder heads are that “something better” coming along. Considering the price is only slightly higher than our former line of heads, this has to be the best value in a set of cylinder heads we have ever offered. We now use the NKB heads on all of our 350, 383, 400, 406, and 421 engines. The performance has been outstanding on every combination we have tried them on. We have been selling the NKB heads for around 4 years. We have sold approximately 5500 sets, and problems have been near non-existent.
The Felpro 1206 is the intake gasket part number is the most common used with these heads Some intake manifolds will set too low due to their design, and the 1266 extra thick intake gaskets may be required. You may also be able to use the Felpro 1205 intake gasket depending on the style of intake used.
Very Important Note.
If you are using an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake then you will need to use a 1205 intake gasket instead of the 1206. This is due to intake flange not covering the top of the 1206 intake gasket properly. The 1205 is slightly small for the NKB heads, and may need a very slight amount of trimming to avoid any gasket materiel hanging over into the intake runner. We have been through this procedure in our engine room many times for engines using the Performer EPS intake.
These heads are also available in angle plug style, and with steam holes.
A breakdown of the part number.
The NKB stands for “New Kid on the Block”; 200 represents the runner size, 272 designates
the use of standard length valves, and single springs with a damper setup for hyd.
flat tappet cams. You will also see the heads listed with the number 274. The
274 designates the use of longer valves with dual springs with a damper,
setup for hyd. roller cams. We also have the valve train setup for solid roller
cams, and will have the number 583 rather than 272 or 274. The heads listed
with the letter “A” in the part number are angle plug design. We also offer these heads with steam holes for GM 400 blocks. These will have the letters SH (Steam Holes)
in the part number. Be absolutely certain of what you need before
buying. Feel free to call us if you need assistance deciding what you need for
your build.
See our other listings for these heads with our Competition Series PBM valves.
Our NKB-200 heads have been designed
especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders,
we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to
cost. The only way you’re going to get a set of heads that flow as well or
better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed
these heads on all of our 383 and most of our 406 engines for the past 4 years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our Superflo dyno. The engines
had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been
amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of
hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and
reliability of the heads.
These heads can be used with outer perimeter or center bolt valve covers.
Recommended accessories for these heads.
Please see our other listings.
|
Part |
Part |
|
Intake gaskets |
· · |
|
Head gaskets |
· · · · |
|
Exhaust gaskets |
· |
|
Valve cover gaskets |
· · |
|
Head bolts |
· · |
|
Head studs |
· |
|
Spark plugs. See Important Note. |
· · |
|
Pushrods (length |
· · |
Important Note
For those running an HEI distributor, the plug gap should be approx. .040-.045 Those running an MSD 6AL unit should gap the plugs to approx. .035-.040 These values are very controversial and you may experiment as to what runs best in your engine. Widening the gap too much can put a strain on the ignition components. Be sure your plug wires are completely fastened onto the spark plugs.
Flow chart information.
Below is
our flowchart on several different heads. All tests were performed on a
Superflo 1020 bench by our expert head builder. We stand behind the accuracy.
We have noticed many other sellers posting what we consider to be false flow
numbers on the heads they are selling. We find this to be nothing short of
outright fraud. Of course, flow numbers can vary a few points depending on
equipment used and testing methods, but not by 15-25 points. Notice the low
lift flow numbers produced by our new heads. That is as important as the upper
lift numbers, and it’s why these heads produce so much peak power and torque.
We are very impressed with the flow numbers of our new heads.
In the flowchart above, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp
heads in flow numbers, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side.
The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average
flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc’d
cast aluminum heads on the market. We guarantee the flow numbers to be
accurate, as well as the horsepower numbers produced by them.
Most importantly, all three of these heads were tested by the same
person, on the same machine, (Superflo bench 1020) using the same testing
method, on the same day. These numbers show the true difference between each
brand, and that’s what counts.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by these new
heads is monumental compared to the 210cc Procomp heads. We offer several different cam
choices with our 383, 406 and 421 engines, and every combination has shown an
increase of up to 50 horsepower and no less than 40 hp over the Procomp 210cc heads. We assumed the new heads would generate a considerable increase
in power, but to our surprise, they generated more power than expected.
We tore down the heads that were on our 383 house engine and
checked the guides as this was an area we are most concerned about, and found
zero wear. The seats were also in perfect condition. We tested the spring
pressure to see how much was lost after a brutal 80 or so dyno passes, and saw
approx. 5 lbs of pressure drop on the nose, and even less on the seat, and
this is to be expected.
Many of the dyno passes were run to 6500 rpm as the large cam
needed 6300-6400 rpm to make peak power, and you must run past this to
determine the fall off point. The super sized cam (choice 1) was run on the
heads towards the end. Considering the size of this cam, it was very impressive
to see zero issues with the heads or hardware. We made a good 25 passes with the big
cam trying out different carb sizes, jetting, intake manifolds, timing setting,
and adding the Super Sucker plate last.
ONE YEAR WARRANTY, UNLIMITED MILEAGE.
Here is a rundown on the hardware used in these heads and the assembly process.
Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.
Our PBM valves are high temp stainless steel.
PBM/Erson stainless steel race series valves, swirl finished one piece undercut, the same valve we have used for years. Our cost on these valves is nearly double the price of some low cost valves on the market. These are made from high grade non-magnetic stainless. We know for a fact that many head builders use the low cost valves. It is very rare we ever encounter a problem with our valves. We also offer the PBM Competition Series valves in our 68cc heads.
Below are copies of our invoices from Engine Parts Warehouse showing recent large orders for our PBM valves and other items. We have removed the price and our account number for privacy reasons. This is the best way we can prove to our customers that the valves we use in our cylinder heads are genuine PBM products.
Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16
Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.
Assembly Procedure
We hone all of the bronze valve guides with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems. The coating on the valve stems is essential to protect the bronze guides from gaulding on initial startup.
Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure most suitable for street rod use, using a spring height checking device. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.
IMPORTANT NOTE CONCERNING ROCKER ARM STUDS.
We have now eliminated another of the low cost knock-off products from our line. The low cost imported rocker arm studs have shown numerous problems unlike those in the past. We have looked at several others on the market, and still find many issues with them that are not acceptable.
Many of the studs had run-out in the shaft of up to an eighth of an inch. This caused major problems with rocker alignment, and depending where the position was when the stud tightened up, would determine the direction of the rocker misalignment. If the warped stud was facing toward or opposite the valve, then the roller tip would would not be centered to the valve tip. This would then create a loss of lift and cause increased wear on the valve tip.
If the warped stud tightened up in a side to side position, then this would allow the rocker tip to be cocked on the valve tip. This would then side load the valve tip with undue pressure, creating a serious wear problem on the side of the valve tip and create excessive wear on the valve guides in the heads. This also side loaded the rocker trunnion and front roller, creating an excessive wear issue in the roller rockers. This run-out was most likely caused by improper heat treating methods.
We have rejected many products that are outright junk and would cause serious issues in your engine only to see other sellers offering those same exact products. It’s all about learning where to draw the line.
Studs and guide plates are NOT included. Other sellers may include these items but rest assured, they are usually not suitable for these heads. We use nothing but the Dart guide plates and ARP rocker studs when we build an engine using these heads, as they allow for perfect alignment of your rockers. See our other listings for a full selection of accessories.
See our other listings for valve train related items that you may need for your project. The part number for the correct studs and our Dart guide plates to be used with these heads is 38-GP for those running 3/8’s size roller rockers, and for those with 7/16’s roller rockers the part number is 716-GP These kits are available in our other listings.
IMPORTANT NOTE, MUST READ!
We have noticed several sellers offering these heads with a one size fits all valve springs for dual use on hydraulic flat tappet and hydraulic roller cams.
If they have this one size fits all setup somewhere in the middle spring pressure values of what is required for a hyd. flat tappet and a hyd roller cam, then it would be too much for the hydr. flat tappet cam, and create a wear issue. Putting too much pressure on flat tappet cams is a sure way to kill the cam. If these middle of the road springs were used on a hyd. roller cam, then the spring pressure would be too low. Valve float and its damaging effects, along with a loss of performance, are sure to occur.
We use the correct spring for your setup and it is never the same on a hyd. flat tappet as it would be on a hyd. roller cam. As mentioned above, the spring requirements between a roller cam and flat tappet cam are dramatically different. Even the odd ball solid flat tappet cam has its own unique setup depending on the lift. The one size fits all hardware claims also to work on these cams. We know of several sellers offering this insane setup to unsuspecting buyers, and it’s not the proper way to set up a set of heads. We would not even consider using a spring setup like this, and believe me, the simplicity of it is appealing.
Our cylinder heads are made from AC4B alloy and tempered to T6 standards. You may have heard the alloys 355 and 356 being used on many heads. The alloy used on our heads is similar but slightly different. The AC4B alloy is commonly used by automakers in Europe and Japan. Take notice of the Rm value. This value indicates the tensile strength of an alloy. As you can see, it’s higher than all the other common alloys in this chart. It’s no surprise as to why we have never experienced a failure of any kind with these heads. Zero failures in the casting, zero failures in the seats and guides. We have sold over 5000 pair of these heads over the past four years.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The results produced by these heads will vary greatly depending on
the type of setup you are running. The engine combos we have dynoed are what
most people use for cam and intake selection, and the results are listed below.
The engines dynoed were many 383’s, and several 406 and a few 421 cid engines in the 10:1 to
11.2:1 compression range. All ran on pump gas. This will give you an idea about the capabilities of these heads with
combinations of cam, intake, rockers, and carb. This may also help you select
the proper cam for your build.
As mentioned, below is just an excerpt from several of our engine adds using the NKB heads. We also built and dynoed a 350 engine recently with the new NKB-200 heads
for a customer, and will have the actual dyno results in this ad soon. The cams
mentioned below are all hyd. roller cams. If you’re using a lower lift than those listed below, then it would be fair to say the hp will drop, but not by
much, providing your lift and duration are somewhat close to any of the cams
mentioned below. This will give you an idea of what kind of power to expect
with these heads, and it can certainly help you choose a cam and intake.
Please do understand that a cam is not included with the heads.
This is just a guide to show what you may expect with a given combination when
building an engine using the NKB heads.
PART # 180345-10 This is a hyd. roller cam for use with OE roller blocks.
PART # 110345-10 This is a retro hyd. roller cam for use with non roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .565/Exhaust .580
Duration @.050″: Intake .245/Exhaust .253
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
Recommended springs #: 274, See our other listings.
Below are our dyno results on one of our engines with a set of our NKB heads using this cam and a single plane intake. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 406 engine with this cam, flat top pistons, and a single plane intake.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam and a single plane intake.
PART # 180265-10 This is a hyd. roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
PART # 110265-10 This is a retro hyd. roller cam for use in non-roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .530/Exhaust .545
Duration @.050″: Intake .233/Exhaust .241
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
Recommended springs #: 274, See our other listings.
Official Dyno report on our 406 and 383 engines with the cam mentioned above. The 406 engine had a dual plane intake, yet still achieved over 500 hp with the NKB heads.
Cam choice #2 and a dual plane intake.
This cam and a single plane intake.
PART # 180245-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
PART # 110245-10 This is a retro style roller cam for use in non-roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .500/Exhaust .510
Duration @.050″: Intake .225/Exhaust .231
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with our NKB heads and a single plane intake. Considering the low lift and duration of this cam, the hp numbers are excellent.
This cam and a single plane intake.
236/242 duration
110 lobe sep.
The solution to running a hyd. roller cam of decent size in an engine and avoiding valve float is an easy fix, thanks to the Howards Max Effort lifters and our Comp lightweight springs. The cost is only slightly more than the regular Howards street tie bar lifters, and they are undoubtedly the most stable hyd. roller lifters on the market without going to all out racing hydraulic roller lifters. The Max Efforts are also very quiet. Not sure what rpm range they can remain stable at, but we have pushed many of our sbc engines up to the 6,650 rpm range in order to establish the fall off point of a particular build.
We now use these lifters with many of our cam choices. We have tried the Morel tie bar hyd. roller lifters on cams in the 550 and higher lift range in the past and found them highly unstable at around 5800 rpm. Well before audible valve float was evident, the horse power numbers were falling sharply due to valve float. Any cam that’s approaching the 550 lift or higher range should not use the Morel street/strip lifters. The Max Efforts were very stable well into the 6500 rpm range and higher. The cam in this ad is below the 550 lift range but close enough to the limit that we recommend the Max Effort lifters.
Head bolt washer recommendation.
The NKB-200 heads require
the use of special head bolt washers, and extended reach head bolts. Using
stock length head bolts will not allow the use of the special washers required,
as the OE bolts have a limited amount of thread on them. Not using the special
head bolts and washers may cause serious damage to the cylinder heads.
Guide plate recommendation.
We strongly
recommend the use of the Dart guide plates with these heads, or with any
aluminum heads for that matter. These guide plates will allow
better rocker tip alignment due to the fact the rocker stud holes in them
are oval shaped. We use them on every set of heads we install on our engines,
including the Dart Platinum Pro-1’s. The rocker tip may end up offset to one
side more than is acceptable, and the Dart guide plates allow a decent amount
of correction. The variances in stud position to valve guide alignment vary on
all brands of heads. The rockers could also contribute to this issue, as the
trunnion or rocker body could have variance. By having proper rocker tip
alignment, you are distributing the pressure on the valve tip evenly. This not
only reduces uneven valve tip wear, but also prevents undue stress on the valve
guides in the heads.
Pushrod recommendation.
We recommend not using stock GM pushrods with these
heads. The spring pressures on aftermarket heads are somewhat higher than on OE
heads. Combine this with the larger lift and duration cams often used, and
stock pushrods may flex or permanently bend. The stock pushrods are usually
made from a mild 1810 steel that has been heat treated. Under high rpm they
will usually flex and cause a loss of lift resulting in a power loss. The
engine will usually run erratically when pushrods are flexing. The Spintron
valve train dyno proves that inadequate pushrods will flex to a great degree as
engine rpm increases.
Some GM pushrods have a welded ball on them, and they stand a
greater chance of breaking off with the use of larger than stock
cams, and increased spring pressure. We offer pushrods made from 4310 chromoly with an .080 wall thickness. They are superior to any stock pushrod. Our prices
on them are the best you will find.
The size that you will
most likely need with the NKB heads will be 7.250. This
size has worked well for us when using the Comp high energy or Scorpion brand rockers. There
are many low cost pushrods on the market in the $29-$39 range. These low
cost pushrods are totally unsuitable for use with these heads for the many
reasons mentioned above, and they are not guide plate compatible. They usually
have a wall thickness of only .065. These pushrods will cause problems when
used on a high performance setup. There are many factors that can
determine pushrod length requirements. The 7.250 length
is the most applicable. Should you purchase a set of pushrods from us and find
that the length is not suitable, you may return them, and we will send out the
size you request.
If you decide to purchase one of our new Comp reduced base cams, then the pushrod length will increase to approx. 7.300 or possibly 7.350 These new Comp custom grind cams are what we now use in all of our engines.
If you are running full roller rockers, we recommend tall valve covers, and this can cause the oil that is pumped up into the top of the heads to not be deflected back down onto the valve springs, valve tips and roller rockers. The lack of oil on these parts can lead to not only a lack of lubrication but also to a lack of cooling on these parts. Heat transfers up the valve stem from the combustion chamber. This heat is very high in temp, and may cause serious damage to the valve guides, springs and roller rockers.
The cure for this would be to install a low cost set of stud girdles. Stud girdles increase stability to the rockers’ studs, eliminating flex that is may be present to some degree when running cams several sizes over stock, not to mention increased spring pressures over stock. Stud flex robs your engine of power and smooth operation in the upper rpm ranges. As mentioned above, another very important aspect of using stud girdles is that they deflect oil directly back onto the valve springs, valve tips and roller rockers. On a stock engine this is not an issue due to the fact that stock valve covers are very close to the top of the rocker arms.
NKB-200 64CC 200CC RUNNER SIZE STRAIGHT PLUG FOR SBC CHEVY ENGINES
Intake Valve Dia: 2.02″
Intake Gasket: Felpro# 1206 fits perfectly with most intakes. Should your intake drop too low, then the 1266 gasket will correct this problem. Our line of intakes have worked very well with the Felpro 1206 intake gaskets.
Head Gasket: Felpro# 1003 or our line of GR-30 and GR-40 heads gaskets. Must use head gaskets that are suitable for use with aluminum heads.
Exh Valve Dia.: 1.600″
Exhaust Gasket: Depends on what type exhaust you’re using. Best to try and match up the gasket to your header or manifold
Flow, Intake: See chart above.
Flow, Exhaust: See chart above.
Head Bolts: We strongly recommend ARP # 134-3601 head bolts. Must use extended reach with head bolt washers or head studs.
Head Studs: PC-2451-Studs (12pt) or ARP brand.
Manifold: Most any. Our line of intakes fit very well on the NKB heads.
Milling: Min. Down to 58.5cc or 64.5 = .060″ See info in this listing for details on this.
Pistons: Most 23°aftermarket pistons.
Push Rod length: When running a hyd. roller cam use 7.250 length. See our other listings for the best deal on premium pushrods.
Push rod Guide Plate: We strongly recommend Dart flat guide plates. See our other listings for many accessories.
Retainers/Locks: Chromoly Steel Retainers, with 10° Comp brand machined locks are used on all of our heads.
Spark Plug: Straight, .750″ reach, gasket, Autolite 3923 or NGK 4554 for one step lower heat range than the Autolite.
Spring Pockets: 1.550″ OD (.030″ deeper max)
Springs: Comp 1.43 outer diameter. Dual springs with an internal damper.
Valve Length: 5.015″ (+.100″) for hyd. flat tappet cams or + .200 for hyd. roller cams
Valve Stem Dia: .3415″ – 11/32″
Valve Train:
Valve Guides: 1/2″ OD Int = Mag-bronze Exh = Phos-bronze (.002″ press)
Valve Guide length: 1.950″
Valve Guide clearance: .0014″ – .002″ (with our .3415 dia. valve stem)
Valve Guide Spacing: 1.890″ moved .030″ from stock
Valve Seats: Hardened Ductile Iron, .006″ press
Valve Seat dim. Standard
Valve Seat angles: Int = 32° – 45° – 60° – 70° Exh = 37° – 45° – radius
Stud Girdle: Use any standard girdle. Our Gold Series Stud Girdles work very well on these heads.
Torque: Head Bolts = 65 ft/lb
Rocker Studs = 55 ft/lb
Manifold = 30 ft/lb
Block Use: Any
Weight: 59-61 lbs fully assembled pair.
Important installation notice.
As with any new heads, you must do a mock setup with the heads before bolting them on. This is done by setting the heads on the engine and using two bolts to hold the heads in place. This will allow you to check your pushrod clearance, and verify that your rocker studs are all in line. In rare instances, if your pushrods are touching any surface of the heads, you will have to dremel these spots for clearance. We have seen this situation with many aftermarket heads, including Dart. There are areas of the casting that are very close to interfering with pushrods, and it will only take seconds to correct, but you certainly don’t want to have completely bolted the heads on and find this out. We received a large order of Dart heads that had an interference issue with the pushrods, and as mentioned, it only takes seconds to correct this with a dremel tool, but not if you have secured all 34 head bolts. You cannot correct such issues with the heads on the engine due to the risk of contamination of the rest of the engine. See our other listings for items you may need to complete your engine build.
If you have been a regular shopper with us, you will have noticed we do offer some knock-off products that are made off-shore. We do also sell many products made in the USA. We have always been very particular as to the quality and workmanship of such products, while considering the cost. We scrutinize our products very carefully and refuse to sell products that simply don’t meet our standards. We have now eliminated another of the low cost knock-off products from our line. The low cost imported rocker arm studs have shown numerous problems unlike those in the past. We have looked at several others on the market, and still find many issues with them that are not acceptable.
The most serious issues included the fact that many of the studs had run-out in the shaft up to 150 thous. This caused major problems with rocker alignment, and depending where the position was when the stud tightened, would determine the direction of the misalignment. If the stud position was facing the valve, then the roller tip would not run off to the side of the rocker but it would cause the roller tip not to be centered on the valve. This would then create a loss of lift.
However, another issue concerned us most of all. The warped stud shaft of some of these studs would allow the rocker tip to be cocked on the valve tip depending on the position it was tightened at. This would then side load the valve tip with undue pressure creating a serious wear problem on the valve tip and valve guides in the heads. This also side loaded the rocker trunion and front roller creating an excessive wear issue in the roller rockers.
We also found the difference in the tread pitch and depth to be dramatic compared to the ARP studs. The rocker studs in an engine are under a tremendous upwards pull and improper thread design may cause the studs to pull out of the head. The ARP studs screw into the heads with a very precise fit and feel.
After thoroughly comparing the ARP studs and several off shore models, I am convinced that we will never offer them again regardless of the price difference. They were never as bad in the past as to what we’re seeing now. This run-out was most likely caused by improper heat treating methods.
We are glad to offer many of the low cost items that are off-shore, but will always give careful consideration to quality, functionality, and overall value. We will not sell imported after-market rocker studs going forward.
You will notice that we offer many US-made products, but we may not offer those same items in off-shore lines. It certainly is not because we don’t have access to the low cost off-shore product, but because of quality issues that we have discovered. We have rejected many products that are outright junk and would cause serious issues in your engine only to see other sellers offering those same exact products. It’s all about learning where to draw the line. We are aware of only one other rocker arm stud besides ARP on the market of decent quality, and that’s from the GM Performance division, and it’s fair to say they are most likely supplied to GM by ARP under private label.
If you are running full roller rockers, we recommend tall valve covers, and this can cause the oil that is pumped up into the top of the heads to not be deflected back down onto the valve springs, valve tips and roller rockers. The lack of oil on these parts can lead to not only a lack of lubrication but also to a lack of cooling on these parts. Heat transfers up the valve stem from the combustion chamber. This heat is very high in temp, and may cause serious damage to the valve guides, springs and roller rockers.
The cure for this would be to install a low cost set of stud girdles. Stud girdles increase stability to the rockers’ studs, eliminating flex that is may be present to some degree when running cams several sizes over stock, not to mention increased spring pressures over stock. Stud flex robs your engine of power and smooth operation in the upper rpm ranges. As mentioned above, another very important aspect of using stud girdles is that they deflect oil directly back onto the valve springs, valve tips and roller rockers. On a stock engine this is not an issue due to the fact that stock valve covers are very close to the top of the rocker arms.
If you have ever removed the valve covers on an engine while it is running you would notice that the oil sprays up out of the back side of the rockers and goes in all directions. The most important reason that oil is brought up into the top of the engine is for lubrication and just as importantly, to cool the valve train components. The oil temp does have a great cooling effect, as its temp is only around 215 deg. and the heat that is transferring up into the valves and springs is far greater than this. If oil were not flushed onto these parts, lack of lubrication would be just one problem. Valve guides and stems that are heated up to high temps, and also lack the proper lubrication may experience excessive wear. We suspect that these parts may be stressed due to the oil not being redirected back onto them, and stud girdles would positively protect these parts to a great degree.
We now use them on every engine we build regardless of the degree of cam and spring pressure. Those running cams that are above 460 lift should use stud girdles, since this is about the level that stud flex may come in, especially when running the smaller 3/8’s rocker studs. Excessive valve guide wear along with other valve train components can be very expensive to repair.
A final note…Skip White Performance…About Us
|
I’m sure many of you have noticed there are 2 high performance engine builders in Kingsport, TN with similar names, leading to a great amount of confusion.
We are Skip White Performance, NOT White Performance and Machine.
Due to the name similarity, many customers looking for us online inadvertently find them, thinking we are the same company. Definitely not…there is no connection between the two companies. We don’t have a problem with free enterprise (competition). However, when the competition builds their foundation on such things as a name similarity and their supposedly long history of being in business, then we think it’s about time we set the record straight.
We have owned White Performance since 2003, with the exception of the machine shop, which was owned by Fred White at the time. He continued to operate the machine shop and build engines for us while we continued selling online under the eBay user ID of skipwhite and the eBay store name of whiteperformance1.
Due to their limited production capability and many disagreements about the engine and head building process as well as workmanship, we opted to open a full scale machine shop of our own a few years later. Fred White began competing against us even though our contract had a non-compete clause in it.
As our business grew, we opened a second, much larger warehouse and machine shop around 2011, located on Brookside Ln. in Kingsport TN. By putting heart and soul in this company, we have become the number one street rod engine builder in the nation.
Fred sold his shop to an investor in 2016 and the new owners continue to reap the benefits from this confusion between the two shops. This investor lacked any knowledge of this industry. They continue to use the White Performance & Machine name. Contrary to what is posted on their website, Fred White is no longer associated with the company in any way. Their main spiel in advertising is, “In business since 1979,” when in fact, we purchased the White Performance company in 2003, with the exception of the machine shop.
All in all, we have been in this business going on 17+ years. Skip White’s passion has been owning and building street rods for 47 years on a personal level. The knowledge he has gained over time has allowed him to venture into this business and succeed to a very high level.
The great pretenders continue capitalizing on our success due to the name similarity, but have been degrading our reputation. We have been getting calls nearly on a daily basis from people that now realize there are two shops in this town with very similar names. Customers complain of serious problems in getting their orders in a timely manner from them. They think they purchased their cylinder heads from us. Due to the confusion, there is an increasing amount of negative feedback that is affecting our name within the street rod community, when in fact we have a near perfect reputation in this industry. We have an “A+” rating with the Better Business Bureau and we have maintained the A+ rating for many years.
FAST FORWARD TO PRESENT DAY…We have become the largest street rod engine builder in the nation. Our engines, rotating assemblies, and cylinder heads are built to very high standards and shipped to our customers in a timely manner. We are a premier seller on eBay with a positive feedback score of well over 206,000 and growing, as compared to our competitor’s score of approximately 24,000.
Our engines are custom-built to our customers’ specifications and are shipped in approx. 2-5 weeks, perhaps sooner, depending on the season. Our rotating assemblies usually ship out in about one week or less, and our heads ship in about a week or less.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Additional information
| Brand | NEW KID ON THE BLOCK 200 |
|---|---|
| Other Part Number | SETUP FOR HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAMS |
| Interchange Part Number | NKB-200-274 |
| Part Brand | NBK-200-274 |
| Manufacturer Part Number | NKB-64cc-274-ST |
| Finish | ALUMINUM |
Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.
Related products
-
AFR ENFORCER 200cc HEADS CHEVY 400/406 WITH STEAM HOLES 65cc STR. PLUG 274-AFR
$1,295.00 Add to cart -
BBC CHEVY 496-572 BRAVO 335 REC. PORT 335cc ALUMINUM HEADS ASSEMBLED BRAVO-272
$1,259.00 Add to cart -
AFR ENFORCER 200cc HEADS CHEVY 400/406 WITH STEAM HOLES 65cc ANGLE PLUG 274-AFR
$1,295.00 Read more -
AFR ROCKER ARM STUDS 7/16-14 IN. BASE THREAD 7/16 -20IN SET OF 16 # 6405-16
$104.25 Add to cart
Reviews
There are no reviews yet.