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SBC CHEVY STAGE 2.0 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 383 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 505 HP STREET ROD SETUP.
RUNS ON PUMP GAS.
This engine is fully assembled from intake to oil pan.
ROLLER BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
FORGED 4.030 BORE WISECO PISTONS, SCAT 3.750 STROKE CRANK, AND 5.7 or 6.0 SCAT RODS. NKB ALUMINUM HEADS.
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN.
4.030" BORE X 3.750" STROKE
GM ROLLER BLOCK WITH 4 BOLT MAIN CAPS.
- NKB ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS.
- HOWARDS ROLLER CAM. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS.
- CLOYES RACE BILLET TIMING SET. THE VERY BEST ON THE MARKET.
- COMP HIGH ENERGY ALUMINUM ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO.
- SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.
- SCAT RODS WITH ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS.
- WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS. 800+HP RATED.
- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.
- CHAMP 5 QT. OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM. 8qt. AVAILABLE AS AN UPGRADE.
- PRO-RACE BRAND DAMPER.
- TWO YEAR WARRANTY.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
See our other listings for the fully dressed out turn-key version.
Two year warranty, see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #2 and #3 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.
If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 505. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,400 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear.
Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 engine is a better choice than the 350 engine.
1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 350's on the market. The main difference between a 383 and the 350 is that the 383 torque comes in much lower. The difference is so dramatic that you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horsepower rating than it actually has. If you're not familiar with the 383 engine, do an internet search on SBC 383 vs 350, and you will be convinced of the difference.
2. The exhaust note that this engine produces is much deeper than that of any of the smaller cubic inch engines on the market. The difference is dramatic to say the least.
3. This engine can be installed in medium to heavier cars without killing acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter. This engine will accelerate a 3600 lb or heavier car much better than the 350.
4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, yet costing only slightly more than building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There is nothing unsafe about running an engine that's as well built as this up to approx. 6,150 rpm. Our NKB aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. The Wiseco Racing pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at its highest with these type pistons.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine is very desirable compared to those running 350's. No 350 can be built up to the level of a 383 while running pump gas with the same compression. The power and torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what make the 383 such an incredible engine, compared to the 350.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.
One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.5:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1. We do not see any problems with a 10.5:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3 we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases reliability to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you have choose. Were more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block.
Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.
The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are comparable to the premium series as they are made using 2618 aircraft alloy instead of 4032 alloy. All of our Wiseco pistons have fully machined crowns. The lower cost forged Wiseco pistons have an as cast crown. You will never this type of cast crown on any of the premium priced pistons on the market.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons have a compression height that is .015 taller than nearly all catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Another good feature about our pistons having a taller compression height is that the ring land above the top ring is much stronger by being .015 thicker. When pistons encounter the effects of detonation, it is not uncommon to see pistons with the ring land above the top ring broken off. The thicker ring land also makes a better heat sink.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy. We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.
Why go with 2618 forged pistons? If you encounter certain tuning issues, detonation is highly probable, and its effects can cause severe damage to your engine. The 2618 forged piston is able to withstand the damaging effects from detonation to a higher degree than the lower cost 4032 forged pistons, especially non-forged hypereutectic pistons such as Speed Pro or Keith Black, and many others.
We have built approximately 3500 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The pictures below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons. Flash glare on the piston top seems to have enhanced the milling marks. These are hardly visible with the naked eye.
Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice. 5.7 or 6.0 inch piston and rod combinations available
HASTINGS HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down considerably.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike some Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER, INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS
Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you’re going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 383 and 406 engines for the past two years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.
In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market. We offer four different cam choices with our 383 engine.
Here is a rundown on the hardware used in the NKB heads and the assembly process.
The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM Competition valves is $239
We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our 383 and 406 engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.
Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.
COMP CAMS "POSITIVE STOP" VITON VALVE STEM SEALS. # 529-16
Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16
Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.
We hone all of the bronze valve guides with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems. The coating on the valve stems is essential to protect the bronze guides from gaulding on initial startup.
Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell non branded, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Comp High Energy, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, Comp Gold Arc, Scorpion Race and Endurance Series rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
Howrds Tie Bar Lifters or Delphi Anti Pump up lifters. Depending on Cam Choice.
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
We are offering several cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam Choice #1
Special Grind # 33161
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11323
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice, coupled with our single plane intake and our flat top forged pistons with 1.6 rockers, will produce right at 505 horsepower at approx. 6,150 RPM. We recommend the dual plane for better drivability, and throttle response. The dual plane intake will move the torque down lower in the rpm range. The single plane intake would allow the engine to make its peak advertised horsepower at the peak rpm, but these type intakes move the torque band higher up in the rpm range. Expect a slight loss of top end power with the dual plane intake, but low speed drivability and cruising are greatly improved. The 1.5 versus 1.6 rockers also have similar characteristics as the single plane compared to the dual plane intake. The 1.5's will certainly help torque numbers up in the lower rpm range compared to the 1.6 rockers.
The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,800 lbs unless your vehicle is set up with a somewhat deep final gear, (3.55-3.73 ratio). Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. A final gear of approx. 3.73 or numerically higher, and a stall of approx. 2,500 or up to 3,200 would be highly recommended.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with this cam choice with a single plane intake, and the 1.6 rockers. Results will vary depending on intake and rocker choice. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with this cam choice, and a single plane intake with 1.6 rockers. This particular dyno report also used the optional SQ-750 carb, and possibly added a very slight increase of top end horsepower over our advertised engine using the Slayer 750 vac. sec. carb.
If you choose cam choice 1 with the single plane intake combination, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor and CDI unit. You should also upgrade the carburetor to the SS or SQ Series. These important upgrades are essential for improved tuning, idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor, we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the mechanical advance comes in. You may even "lock-out" the distributor, depending on your car's overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle and low speed cruising, as well as high rpm operation. The SS or SQ carb allows you to adjust and control the idling and low rpm cruising quality to a much greater degree than the regular vacuum secondary carb. The acceleration and overall performance is greatly enhanced with the SS or SQ Series carbs.
Cam choice #2
Special Grind # 33151
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11480
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop off by approximately 20 with this cam when using the single plane intake and 1.6 rockers. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5900 RPM and this can vary depending on rocker and intake choice.
If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 4,000 lbs, and you want slightly better streetability, then this is a very good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers if you would like to further improve low end response.
This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice. This cam will also have a lopey idle, but not as radical as the larger cam above.
DYNO REPORTS SOON TO COME.
Cam choice #3
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-13436
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice has a lower lift and duration than the others offered above, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response and mid-range power with this cam is very good. Horsepower rating would be approx. between 405-420 depending on intake and rocker choice.
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam.
This would be the only choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2000 RPM in overdrive. A stock stall converter may be used with this cam, but for improved acceleration, a 2000-2250 stall is recommended, especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear.
Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above. You may run power brakes with this cam, and it may allow the use of the vacuum advance for improved low end power and fuel mileage. This cam is best paired up with our Edelbrock EPS intake. This particular intake is offered at no extra cost. The EPS intake actually has amazing off idle power compared to any of the larger runner dual plane intakes. This intake is the most practical intake to select when you use this cam. Fuel mileage would be at its best with this cam and the EPS intake. We also run a lower compression piston with this combination, making the engine less prone to detonation.
Official dyno results with this cam, 1.5 rockers, dual plane EPS intake, SL-600 carburetor, NKB heads, and an HEI distributor. Notice the rpm range we started this dyno run at with this cam. We are unable to start a run at this low of an rpm with any of the larger cams used in a 383 engine. The torque numbers this cam produces in the off idle range would be far greater with this cam and intake combo than with any of the larger cam selections.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
Polished intakes also available.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
Timing components: Cloyes Race Billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower). These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $135.00, about three times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Champ premium oil pan.
Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has a 5 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All of our engines will come with the Champ oil pan. We also offer the 8qt Champ pan as an optional upgrade. If your car will not allow the use of the large capacity Champ oil pan.
Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, and is far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.
Genuine Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets are used on all of our engines.
We use this premium studded mini nut set for oil pan and valve cover fasteners. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other builders. We use this set on all our engines.
Our new 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only unless you have opted for our de-tuned version with a reduced compression ratio. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades and options. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.
Flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission builds. Upgrade to a 168-tooth or 153-tooth flexplate for manual transmissions.
Cost for this option is $105.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a 153 tooth and a 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI Billet Steel flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a PRW brand billet steel flywheel SFI rated 168-tooth or 153-tooth flexplate for manual transmissions. We highly recommend the SFI billet steel flywheel for those running hard. These are fully cnc'd and far superior in many ways compared to the regular cast iron flywheel.
Cost for the SFI billet flywheel option is $169.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a Chevy 153 tooth and a Chevy 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side.
Cost of this SFI damper upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Polished intake upgrade:The polished intake upgrade is very popular, and certainly adds a bright fresh look to your engine.
Cost for the polished intake upgrade is $61.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake upgrade:The Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake manifold incorporates race-winning technology. The open air space separates the runners from the hot engine oil, and as a result, the air/fuel mixture stays cooler for a denser charge and more power. Includes rear water outlets, two distributor clamp locations and nitrous bosses. Accepts all late model alternator and A/C brackets for the street.
Cost of this upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Dyno Tuning Package: This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT, (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still, occur but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us the seller and the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.
The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.
You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.
Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the recommendations listed below.
Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.
This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such as our Schaeffer brand racing oil. We strongly recommend the Schaeffer Micron Moly 20w-50 grade in warm to hot weather. You may use the lighter weight Schaeffer Supreme 7000 series semi synthetic oil in cooler weather. After the engine is fully broken in, you may move over the Schaeffer full synthetic oil. The Schaeffer brand oil is very highly rated. It is the only brand of oil we use when dyno tuning. Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.
We offer a full line of this oil in our other listings.
Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide.
Oil pressure low as 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
The Dart block used in this engine has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be. Oil pressure in the filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up before any hard acceleration.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.
We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.
The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.
Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam in these engines. Use the oils we recommend to avoid such problems.
If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe. If you do decide to use a mechanical fuel pump, we strongly recommend our Quick Fuel line of mechanical fuel pumps.
Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.
As for oil filters, we recommend AC Delco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.
The Wiseco forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You should start up and go at a mild driving pace for around 10 min. or longer.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof that you have one will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
You must run a crankcase ventilation system to pull gases from the crankcase. This is not supplied with this engine. We have these in our other listings. Usually a pcv system will work, but due to the erratic engine air speed, it may not work so well. We recommend an exhaust evac. system with the larger cam choices. After the engine is totally broken in, you may possibly be able to convert back to the regular style valve cover breathers and pcv system.
If you run the exhaust evac system, then you must have straight through mufflers such as the ones made by Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, and Bullet, etc. These mufflers have perforated walls and flow straight through. These type mufflers will allow the exhaust evac system to gently pull gases from the crankcase at all times at a smooth consistent flow. Your engine rings will seat much faster. Regular chambered mufflers will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac system.
One other benefit of using an exhaust evac system is the reduction in oil leaks. Excessive crankcase pressure is the cause of many oil leaks. After the rings have fully seated, the crankcase pressure will reduce considerably and oil seepage or minor leaks that may have been present will usually stop. We strongly recommend the Moroso brand exhaust evac system over any of the other brands on the market. They have a patent design that others do not use in the tubes that go into the header collector. The fluted notch in the tubes creates a much better drawing effect than those without it.
If you decided on cam choice three with this engine and have chosen our dual plane intake, the common pcv system may be sufficient, but we still would like you to use the exhaust evac setup at least until the engine is fully broken in.
Educate yourself on the exhaust evac. systems before using them. You will find plenty of great information on the internet about them.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed. Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.
Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine, then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving, and crankcase pressures will continue drop.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE.
This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for metal particles. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new low cost regular spin-on oil filter.
You must prime your oil filter. Priming is not needed when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.
You should replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that we recommend, but opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.
If you have chosen our Champ stock appearance pan, fill it with approx 5-6 qts. of oil.
If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs then you will use approx. 7.5-8 qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.
Tuning recommendations. Very important.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must.
If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.
A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.
The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.
You may try running the vacuum advance if you have our regular HEI in this engine. Cam choice 1 may not allow proper operation of this, but the smaller cams may work well. The vacuum advance is adjustable and we recommend that you try it out. If you feel the vac. advance is putting too much initial timing into the engine, you should be able to adjust some of this out of it. Most aftermarket HEI units have an adjustable vac. advance. When setting the total timing, do not have the vac. advance hooked up. If you can bring your initial timing up from where it is at idle by running the vac. advance, the engine will operate tremendously better, have much better fuel mileage, and run cooler in most vehicles. Being able to run the vac. advance with good results is dependent on many factors.
If you hear valve clatter/ping (as it's called), then you need to try and adjust this out of the vac. advance. If valve clatter (pinging, as it's also known) is present under load, then you may not be able to run the vac. advance, but if the valve clatter is coming in around 3500 rpm or higher, then this could be a sign your total timing is set too high. Try backing it off a few degrees before giving up on the vac. advance. Valve clatter/pinging is actually the sound of the detonation occurring in the engine, and can be very damaging.
Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller or ignition kill switch. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.
Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load.
Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.
Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine when running in very hot climate. Race grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.
Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug. The NGK plug is only to be run during very hot weather.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run.
A slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.
Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.
Never use pure antifreeze. 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Keep the engine temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 900-950, and never too far below this unless you are running our cam choice three. The reduced size cams would allow for a lower idle speed.
If your carburetor is not functioning correctly, it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.
Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.
Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.
When setting your carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult. If you are running an electric fuel pump, then the Q-Series Quickfuel carbs are best to run. They are also suitable for use on engines running a mechanical fuel pump. They do not have an electric choke system, and this is usually not a problem unless you are running the engine is extremely cold weather.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will waste fuel.
If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
Valve train maintenance.
Hydraulic roller setups are virtually maintenance-free and very long lived compared to a solid roller setup.
Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.
Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.
Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.
However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 125-130 gph rated pump should be sufficient. It's best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. We believe that the electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.
Your engine info will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered.
Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.
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