SBC BBC CHEVY MELLING VALVE SPRINGS FOR ALUMINUM HEADS VHT # 272-SPRINGS ONLY
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MELLING HIGH PERFORMANCE VALVE SPRING SET,(16) FOR SBC AND BBC ALUMINUM CYLINDER HEADS.
These valve springs have an internal damper. The internal damper is very effective in calming spring harmonics at high rpm, and offering greater overall stability to the outer spring. These springs are for use with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. Not for use with roller cams. See our other listings for a full selection of valve springs. For those purchasing any of the aluminum heads on the market and choosing to use a hyd. flat tappet cam, up to 550 lift, this is the correct spring to use, as well as a very high quality spring that will last for many years. The Melling springs are made in America.
Most low cost valve springs are inferior to these in our opinion. Ratings are usually inaccurate, and quality is compromised. Power loss will result from springs that have taken set, became lazy as it may be called, much like the springs in a worn mattress. Low grade springs are notorious for loosing there vibrancy much sooner than a high quality spring. One more problem with such springs is that they are very prone to contributing to valve float at high rpm. If your springs are not quick and at the proper lb. rating then they not only have trouble closing the valve, they tend to cause the lifter to bounce at the peak point of the cam lobe. Springs that are rated to low, are sure to cause power loss irrespective of wear.
This set of springs have a retail value of, $110.00
There are several low grade springs on the market that we have encountered, and found them to be very inaccurate on lb rating, not to mention there progressive rate is erratic. This may sound like sales hype, but take our word on this. We know of many sellers offering springs that not only have lb ratings that are incorrect, but the quality is poor overall. Having the incorrect springs for your cam will most certainly cause problems.
These springs are exactly what you need for a hydraulic flat tappet cam in the lift range of .440-.550 Not for use on any roller cam of any type. You should always use new locks and retainers with new springs. We have the correct retainers, bases, and valve locks that we use with these springs in our other listings.
The article in blue text below is copied from our cylinder head add, and pertains to the use of improper valve train hardware, please do read.
You can vary slightly on recommended spring ratings for your cam, and not have an issue. When a cam company says what spring rating they recommend, they are telling you what is most ideal, but just remember one thing, if they do tell you that you have to have that exact spring rating, they will also tell you that they just happen to carry that spring. As said, the rating they recommend is most ideal, but does not have to be exact. Read the article below on using the same springs for roller and non roller cams. This is not recommended and will cause problems.
We purchase these springs in engine builders bulk cases of 100ct and will be packed in a plain box.
IMPORTANT NOTE, MUST READ!
We have noticed several sellers offering one size fits all valve springs for dual use of hydraulic flat tappet and hydraulic roller cams. The springs offered in this auction are for a hyd. flat tappet cam only.
We are positively sure that you should never use the one size fits all springs on your heads. This is not the proper type hardware to use on your heads. As many of you may know, a hydr. Roller cam is usually higher in lift and duration, requiring a longer valve, but all roller cams use a more aggressive spring setup regardless of lift, to keep the roller lifters planted on the cam lobe. They are very prone to wanting to bounce the roller lifter away from the lobe due to the very different lobe design on the cam, and the roller on the lifter also tends to contribute to this. These sellers using a one size fits all setup, are trying to hit a happy medium, and most head builders we know of, are completely against it, as well as many head companies such as Dart, etc. If they have this setup somewhere in the middle, then it would be too much for the hydr. flat tappet cam, and create a wear issue. Putting to much pressure on flat tappet cams is a sure way to kill the cam. It's just another way of increasing profit for the seller without regard for the customers best interest as we see it. We recommend the correct spring for your setup and never is it the same on a hyd. flat tappet and a hyd. roller cam. The spring requirements between a roller cam and flat tappet cam are dramatically different. Even the odd ball solid flat tappet cam, has its own unique setup depending on what lift it is. The one size fits all hardware claims to also work on these cams. We know of several sellers offering this insane setup to unsuspecting buyers, and it’s not the proper way to set up a set of heads. These sellers of such hardware also seem to have a magic single valve length, that works on both type cams. We use a .100 long valve with these springs.
Call up any cam manufacture, and tell them you want to use a one size fit's all setup on their hydr. flat tappet cam or hydr. roller cam and they will tell you this is not possible, and depending on the spring pressure, it can't serve both properly. Valve float, on the roller setup, or extreme wear for the flat tappet cam, depends on what cam this crazy setup is closer to, but a power loss is inevitable. We would not even consider this type hardware, and believe me the simplicity of it is appealing.
Take heed to the warning above, and rest assured we will never guide you in the wrong direction when it comes to valve springs. Some cam companies may isolate the spring recommendation a bit closer, and tell you that you need a certain spring rating for use with a certain cam, and you can vary lb. rate slightly lower or higher without any ill effects, but never will they tell you to use the same springs you used on a non-roller cam as you would with any roller cam, or visa-versa.
Note from our company president, Skip white
We have seen the low cost springs on the market, at what appears to be very good prices. My advise is to avoid them like the plague. Not only is the quality questionable, We have found the lb rating to be grossly inaccurate from what they claim to be. We have a spring tester in our machine shop and this not your micky mouse tester many garages use, but ours has a cost of well over $1,500.00 We build heads costing over $10,000.00 per pair and need this type of spring tester. What we have found besides the lb rating issue is that these inferior low cost springs have very poor progressive rate characteristics to them. Their appearance is also the worst we have ever seen. For those of you that don't know much about springs, I can tell you one thing for sure, valve springs have several very critical factors in their design, with little room for error, or power loss or failure will result. One of the factors that is to be addressed is how long the spring can operate before it takes, "set" This in layman terms means that all springs become lazy in how quick and firmly they rebound. Springs that take set to soon, will cause an engine to run poorly. Even the best springs on the market are prone to this, but to much lesser extent, and will run much longer before it becomes an issue. As many of you know we do sell many off-shore products, but when it comes to valve springs, we will most likely never offer an off-shore spring set. The ones I have seen are absolutly terrible. We are at master warehouse distributor level with Melling Engine Parts, and due to the massive amount of hardware and oil pumps we purchase from them, they have extended a very good price to us on these springs. You will be much better off paying the few extra dollars, than purchasing the low end springs regardless of how low the price may be. A valve spring is a moving part, and moving at a very high rate of speed with extreme levels of pressure against it. Harmonics are involved, high temperatures, wear points and metal fatigue must be addressed, etc. There is little room for error. The spring must operate for a long time, and precisely. The metal used is very important as is the heat treating process, not to mention the overall design, and size must be correct. Just to give you an example of how critical a simple looking spring can be, most high level race engines use springs costing over $500.00 per set. That right there tells you that springs can be very complex. By the way those high level race cars using those expensive springs, will usually replace them every season or sooner, as the slight power loss becomes evident. Now think about all of this before you go buy a set of $29.00 springs for your street-rod. If getting a set of low grade springs is not bad enough, having the incorrect spring is worse. We will never give you the incorrect spring for your cam. You may also see low cost springs on the market that are in the 1.25" range with a correct spring rating, the problem with these is they tend to wear out at a very fast rate, due to their small physical size, but one exception to this rule are some of the high grade bee-hive springs on the market. Those particular springs are usually very high quality, and the size rule does not apply to them. Some of the ultra low grade springs we seen were not small diameter, they were actually larger than ours, around 1.50" but the wire diameter was much smaller, therefore making it's larger diameter irrelevant to it's durability. When springs get to the 1.5" diameter size, they tend to cause issues with roller rocker clearance, and the need to cut the base area larger on many oem style heads. Our solid roller springs are of this larger diameter, and are made from very thick wire, but our stainless roller rockers clear them comfortably.
final thought, we feel the same way about the low cost non-branded name lifters, avoid them like the plague as well.
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