|Product Type||Shipped Product|
|Number of reviews||248|
HIGH PERFORMANCE FORD 302, 5.0, 289 COMPLETE HEI DISTRIBUTOR, WITH CAP AND COIL. PART NUMBER 6502-R
File photos. You will receive the correct distributor for your application.
*This distributor does NOT work in applications with an EFI Roller motor, even if it has been converted to carburetion. Roughly 1985 and up
This is a must for those wishing to upgrade the ignition system. This is a one wire distributor. A tach port can also be used. Call 423-722-5152 for tech. info.
Lifetime warranty on this unit, regardless of street or strip use.
For those not familiar with using the GM style HEI distributor in a Ford engine, it’s a very simple hookup. There are two male spade terminals in the cap. One is marked B and the other is marked T. The B terminal is to go to a power source that is active when the key is in the on position, and must also supply power when in the cranking position. The T terminal is for a tach. It’s that simple.
All auto supply and hardware stores have spade terminal kits. This dist. only requires one wire to be up and running. Use at least a 10 gauge wire to the dist. If you have an old point style Ford, do not use any of the old wiring, as they are too small, and delete the ballast resistor for sure.
We are the no.1 wholesale marketer of HEI distributors in the country.
Many garages and speed shops purchase these in case lots from us. Click on the purchases tab above, and you will be shocked as to how many people are buying this unit. We have noticed other units on the market, but few are of this quality. It is the no. 1 HEI on the market.
Call if you have problems paying with your PayPal. We will accept credit or debit cards for pmt. 423-722-5152.
WE HAVE POSSIBLY SOLD MORE OF THESE THAN ANYONE IN THE COUNTRY. THIS IS A TOTALLY REVISED UNIT.
Read some of our past feedback on those that have purchased this unit, and you will be convinced of its quality and value.
THIS IS THE NEWEST VERSION ON THE MARKET. THIS HAS THE HIGH OUTPUT COIL AND IS ESSENTIAL ON ANY MODIFIED ENGINE.
We are in the performance business. Give us a call if you have any technical questions, 423-722-5152.
This is the perfect upgrade for your vehicle, or just as part of a tune-up. Here are a few problems you are likely to encounter when using an old distributor.
The part numbers for distributors beginning with 65 and 85 are interchangeable. The distributors are identical in every respect. We changed the artwork on the package to private labeling and our supplier had to change our part number to distinguish our private label (85 series) from the standard labeling sold to other suppliers (65 series). You may receive the alternate part number since we still have both in stock.
1. Unpack the distributor carefully and inspect it for possible shipping damage. Inspect again after removing the cap.
2. If the distributor to be replaced has not already been removed from the engine, remove its cap. On GM HEI distributor, unplug the pickup to coil harness from the cap. Do not remove the plug wire at this time. Crank the engine slowly until the rotor blade aims a fix point on the engine or firewall. Note this point for future reference.
3. Find the connector in the wiring from the distributor to the ignition switch, and unplug it.
4. Note the exact position of the vacuum advance canister. Put a reference mark on the engine or firewall so that the new distributor may be easily installed in the same position.
5. Loosen and remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp. Lift the old distributor out. If the engine had been running within the past few minutes, the distributor housing may be hot and coated with hot engine oil. Wrap a shop towel around the distributor to avoid burning your hands and dripping oil.
6. Lower the new distributor into position. The rotor should be aimed at the same fixed point as was the rotor of the old distributor, and the vacuum canister aligned with the reference mark. After the new distributor has been lowered into place, you may find that it hasn’t seated firmly against the support boss. This indicates that the lower end of the distributor shaft is not properly aligned with the oil pump drive rod. Do not attempt to force the distributor into position.
7. Reinstall the hold-down clamp and thread the bolt just enough to exert a very slight pressure against the distributor. If the distributor was not firmly seated, manually rotate the engine until the distributor drop down into place.
8. With the distributor properly seated, tighten the hold-down bold just enough so that the distributor is held in place but can still be rotated with a little effort. Again, make sure that the vacuum canister is aligned with the reference mark.
9. Remove the plug wires one at a time from the old cap and install them in the corresponding positions of the new one. After all wires have been transferred, verify that the wire in the terminal post that is aligned with the rotor leads to number one cylinder. If you are unsure of cylinder number position or firing order, this information can be found in the service manual that covers your particular engine. Put on the distributor cap.
10. Reconnect the wiring leading from the distributor to the ignition switch.
11. Connect timing light. Start the engine and allow it to warm up sufficiently to idle smoothly. It may be necessary to rotate the distributor (either clockwise or counter-clockwise) before a smooth idle can be achieved. If the engine will not idle smoothly, the firing order may be incorrect or the rotor may not have been properly aligned during installation. Consult a service manual for corrective procedure.
12. Consult the appropriate service manual to determine the factory-recommended initial timing and idle speed. Set initial spark timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged. Advancing timing two to four degrees from the factory setting will usually provide improved performance and fuel economy. However, timing advance beyond factory specification may result in detonation, which can cause engine damage. Listen carefully. If you hear the engine knocking or pinging, retard initial timing as required to eliminate it.
13 If you are converting from points to HEI, be sure that the your new unit is supplied with a full 12 volt power source. All point systems had a ballast resister that reduced voltage to around 6-8 volts. These resisters were often in the wire harness coming from the starter, and this must be eliminated. Test your power source to be sure your feeding the new HEI unit a full 12 volts. You will also need a spade terminal to tap your power source into the new unit. You can find such terminals at any auto supply. See our other listings for many HEI accessories.
Reviewed by a***a on Jan. 25, 2017, 11:02 p.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
great product!!!!!!!!!!!! Super fast shipping!!!!!!!!!!!
Reviewed by n***4 on Jan. 22, 2017, 1:25 a.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
Very fast delivery thanks so much
Reviewed by 5***5 on Jan. 18, 2017, 1:40 p.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.