|Product Type||Shipped Product|
|Number of reviews||7|
SBC CHEVY 383 CUBIC INCH TURN KEY ENGINE 505 HORSE POWER.
STREET ROD SETUP.
STAGE 2.0 SERIES, HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM RUNS ON PUMP GAS. FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT RODS, & CRANK, NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS .
Pictured below is our turn key engine with the single plane intake. The second picture further down in the ad shows it with the optional dual plane intake. We also offer these intakes with a polished finish as an upgrade.
The engine will come with your choice of the Champ large capacity 8qt. oil pan or stock appearing 5qt. model for those with clearance issues.
Introducing our Turn Key Stage 2 Roller cam 383 cid 505 HP engine.
The detailed build sheet is at the lower part of this listing, but we felt it important to summarize a few aspects about some of the parts used in this engine up front. Many of these parts are on the upper end of the scale as far as quality goes, considering this engine’s price range. The use of such high quality parts will determine not only the performance, but the endurance and reliability expected. An example of such parts used would be our Genuine Scat 9000 series crank with an HD flexplate and Pro-Race brand damper, Scat rods with ARP cap screws, forged Wiseco pistons made from 2618 aircraft alloy, Cloyes Race Billet timing components, Melling M-Select series oil pump, Champ oil pan with windage tray, and crank scraper, Scorpion Race Series roller rockers, USA made, Howards brand 4130 chromoly pushrods, PBM competition series valves, and Comp Cams retainers, id locators, and 10 degree valve locks, ARP head bolts, rod bolts, rocker studs and oil pump stud. All sealants used on the engine are Permatex, "The Right Stuff." Our engine builders all have a minimum of 20-35 years experience building very high level engines. Our machinery is the most advanced on the market. Our company founder, Skip White, is also very knowledgeable on the proper combination of parts used to maximize drivability, performance, and reliability to suit your individual needs. We seldom ever have serious problems with the engines we build.
We know for a fact that most, if not all, of the similar priced engines on the market use very few, if any, of the higher end parts in their engines. Could it be possible that the higher end parts are not actually needed and their use is nothing more than "overkill?" We think not, considering we do try to keep costs down to make our engines profitable and affordable.
Past experience tells us the use of these above average parts is very important if you want maximum performance, durability and reliability. Some lower cost parts used in many engines often fail early on, and perform poorly. So, please make a true comparison before making your decision on such an important purchase.
Continue reading for the full description of this engine.
This engine is designed for street/strip use. Pump gas friendly.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.
Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold. Polished finish also available as an upgrade.
Two year warranty; see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The dyno numbers produced on our base engine were created with our cam choice # 1 and a single plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel carburetor. Our test engine produced right at 505 HP at 6150 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range.
Please read the cam info provided below. Many cam choices are available to suit your needs. You may have noticed that our Stage 2.2 Super Stroker 383 engine with cam choice 1 makes more power, yet has the same cubic inch. This is due to the fact that cam choice 1 for that engine is one step up from the cam choice 1 in the Stage 2.0. It also uses the Howards Tie Bar hyd. roller lifters. The 2.2 is set up in a somewhat Pro Street fashion. The Stage 2.0 engine offered in this ad is a more conservative build, with extreme reliability, yet still offers very high horsepower numbers.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 383 Stage 2.0 engine is a better choice over most other 383 engines on the market.
1. The 383 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars much better than the common under-powered 350's on the market.
2. The exhaust note of a small block 383 is much deeper that of the typical 350 engine.
3. The ability to put this engine in medium weight cars without killing its acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus. This engine will accelerate a heavy car much better than the 350.
4. Decent drivability and generating up to 505 HP at the same cost as building a 350 street rod engine. Horsepower will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have three different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifold. Flat or dish pistons are available, but we recommend staying with the piston volume size that we match up with your cam choice.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical RPM range to produce its max HP output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built, like this, up to 6,200 RPM. The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 383 engine in it is higher than those running 350's.
7. The cost of the Stage 2.0 roller cam 383 engine offers more value than the 350 engine considering the power increase.
8. 383 engines are known to be very fuel-efficient when set up properly.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 9/15/2013, we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000.00 investment. It’s been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.
Update, as of 4/20/2016, we now have a second brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. The new Super Flow dyno has very advanced electronics, and this dyno is what is used on our sbc engines for research and development.
One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have slightly less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. All internals and external items in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.5:1 or less, depending on cam choice. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.5:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars. For those choosing cam choice 3 or 4, we will lower the compression ratio slightly. The lower compression is all that's needed with the smaller cam, and this further increases resistance against detonation to a great extent. Fuel requirements can be lowered to mid grade 89-91 octane with the reduced compression, but do also consider the many other factors that increase the need for octane, such as outside temps, altitude, ignition timing, vehicle weight, gearing, payload, etc. We would prefer that you use premium fuel regardless of what setup you choose. We're more or less on the thin line between mid-grade and premium fuel requirements with the reduced compression setup.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 2 roller cam 383 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block.
Listed below are all the machining procedures performed on this block. These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height (1.140). This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042. total including head gasket.
Most catalog pistons sit much lower in the block, and this may be desirable when used in old blocks that have had the deck milled down many times. When installing such pistons in blocks that have a near stock deck height, the quench zone is very poor. We had our pistons custom made to address this issue. Keeping the quench tight not only makes more power, but protects the engine from detonation to a much greater extent than a loose quench/squish zone.
The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately one thousand 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-505 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.
The advancements on the late roller blocks are many compared to the early style blocks. The only reason we stopped building the 383's with these blocks had to do with core availability. We never used the early style 1pc. rms non-roller blocks or 2 pc rms style to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime.
We are now offering a flat rate shipping fee on this item, see details below. We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This procedure was performed on a cnc machine for absolute accuracy and consistency. We have noticed some machine shops butcher these areas in the block.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)
The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.
Flat or Dish top pistons will be used depending on Cam selection.
The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are comparable to the premium series as they are made using 2618 aircraft alloy instead of 4032 alloy. All of our Wiseco pistons have fully machined crowns. The lower cost forged Wiseco pistons have an as cast crown. You will never this type of cast crown on any of the premium priced pistons on the market.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons have a compression height that is .015 taller than nearly all catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Another good feature about our pistons having a taller compression height is that the ring land above the top ring is much stronger by being .015 thicker. When pistons encounter the effects of detonation, it is not uncommon to see pistons with the ring land above the top ring broken off. The thicker ring land also makes a better heat sink.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy. We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.
Why go with 2618 forged pistons? If you encounter certain tuning issues, detonation is highly probable, and its effects can cause severe damage to your engine. The 2618 forged piston is able to withstand the damaging effects from detonation to a higher degree than the lower cost 4032 forged pistons, especially non-forged hypereutectic pistons such as Speed Pro or Keith Black, and many others.
We have built approximately 3500 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor has there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups. For the slight increase in cost, this is the best value on the market.
Flat or dish pistons, depending on cam choice. 5.7 or 6.0 inch piston and rod combinations available.
The photos below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons.
HASTINGS HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY RINGS
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below considerably.
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws are used in all our Scat Rods.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
NKB 68cc 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS
Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you’re going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 383 and 406 engines for the past three years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.
In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market.
Assembled by us with premium PBM competition grade valves, Comp high performance dual springs, Comp retainers, Comp Viton valve seals, Comp spring ID locators, Comp 10 degree locks.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Scorpion Race series 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend the 1.5 ratio for better low end response and extended valve train life.
ONE OF THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.
We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished.
The rockers have a lifetime warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and may have an excessive amount of needle bearing clearance. The Scorpion does not have much of a loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures of our engines, these rockers should last a lifetime.
All Scorpion Rockers Feature:
Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined.
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, and Comp Gold Arc rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
DELPHI ANTI PUMP-UP LIFTERS
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
We are offering three cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam Choice #1
Special Grind # 33161
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11323
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam choice (1), coupled with our single plane intake and our flat top forged pistons with 1.6 rockers, will produce right at 505 horsepower at approx. 6,150 RPM. We recommend the dual plane for better drivability, and throttle response. The dual plane intake will move the torque down lower in the rpm range. The single plane intake would allow the engine to make its peak advertised horsepower at the peak rpm, but these type intakes move the torque band higher up in the rpm range. Expect a slight loss of top end power with the dual plane intake, but low speed drivability and cruising are greatly improved.
The single plane intake is not recommended for use in vehicles weighing over 3,600 lbs unless your vehicle is setup with a somewhat deep final gear. The rockers used on our test engine were our Scorpion Race Series roller rockers. Our cam timing components were left in the straight up position. Ignition timing was set at 34 degrees total and 93 octane fuel was used. During very hot weather, total timing should be set at 31-32 degrees. A final gear of approx. 3.73 or numerically higher, and a stall of approx. 2,600-3,000 would be highly recommended.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with cam choice # 1 with a single plane intake.The single plain intake would have produced a higher hp number. Results will vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will usually improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #1 and a single plane intake.
If you choose cam choice 1 with the single plane intake combination, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor and CDI unit. You should also upgrade the carburetor to the SS Series. These important upgrades are essential for improved idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor, we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the mechanical advance comes in. You may even "lock-out" the distributor, depending on your car's overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle and low speed cruising, as well as high rpm operation. The SS carb allows you to adjust and control the idling and low rpm cruising quality to a much greater degree than the regular vacuum secondary carb. The acceleration and overall performance is greatly enhanced with the SS Series carbs.
There is one more upgrade that I feel would enhance performance and add stability and longevity the valve train. The Tie bar lifter upgrade is essential for those that choose to run hard. The oe drop-in roller lifters used in this engine are a decent lifter but will not withstand hard use and/or the max rpm rating for any extended time. Any over-revving of the engine beyond its peak power may bring on valve float. The Howards Tie Bar lifters will not only improve performance but also allow the engine to operate very well in its peak rpm range. They will also maintain valve train stability for several hundred rpm past the peak rpm rating for this cam setup. This is a very nice upgrade for any street rod running into the upper rpm ranges.
Cam choice #2
PART # 180245-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .500/Exhaust .510
Duration @.050": Intake .225/Exhaust .231
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
This cam choice (2) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting a decent bottom and mid range while still generating excellent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop to approx. 470-475 with this cam when using the single plane intake and 1.6 rockers. This setup will generate its peak power at approx. 5900 RPM.
If your car is in the medium weight range or up to approx. 3,800 lbs, and you want slightly better streetability, then this is a good cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at 3.55 or numerically higher. You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers if you would like to further improve low end response.
This cam should be paired up with the dual plane Crosswind intake for better drivability. The single plane Hurricane can be used, but the dual plane will have much better bottom end and mid range response. You can also expect a longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cam choice # 1.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 383 engines with cam choice # 2 with a single plane intake. Your results may vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will always improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #2 and a single plane intake.
Cam choice #2 and a single plane intake.
Official Dyno report on our 383 engine with cam choice #2, 1.6 rockers, and a single plane intake.
Cam choice #3
PART # 180315-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .465/Exhaust .470
Duration @.050": Intake .209/Exhaust .215
Lobe sep. angle: 110º
This cam choice (3) has a lower lift and duration than the other two offered above, and is highly recommended for use in heavy cars or full size sport trucks. The low end response with this cam is very good. Horsepower rating would be approx. 425 at 5,500 RPM with 1.6 rockers and a single plane intake.
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 3.30 would be acceptable with this cam. The bottom end power would be much better with this cam than the two other choices above.
This would be the only choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2000 RPM in overdrive. A stock stall converter may be used with this cam, but for improved acceleration a 2000-2250 stall is recommended especially in heavy vehicles with a tall final gear.
Valve train life is greatly extended with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above. You may run power brakes with this cam, and it may allow the use of the vacuum advance for improved low end power and fuel mileage.
If you need help in selecting a cam to suit your needs, feel free to contact our tech. department at 423-722-5152.
THE THREE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
QUICK FUEL SLAYER 600 OR 750 CFM CARB, DEPENDING ON CAM CHOICE.
Quick Fuel Technology (QFT) has engineered its new Slayer series vacuum secondary street carbs with all the features. The Slayer is not some stripped-down off-shore QFT copy, it features the same QFT race engineering, all-aluminum construction and hand-built quality that goes into all QFT race-winning carburetors.
The Slayer's incredible value is made possible by QFT's new CNC machining centers and the unique design that utilizes a secondary metering plate with changeable jets, eliminating the costly secondary metering block unneeded for most street/strip cars. The majority of fine tuning on a street carburetor is done on the primary side, and the Slayer™ provides all of the popular options: changeable idle air and high-speed air bleeds, 3-stage emulsion circuits, changeable primary idle feed restrictions and power valve restrictions.
A truly welcomed feature is the QFT QuickSet adjustment on the vacuum secondary diaphragm that provides a quick external twist adjustment without changing springs. Secondary metering can be altered with changeable main jets and the secondary float is also notched for jet extensions.
Additional features are a fully adjustable electric choke, and a semi polished finish that will improve any engine compartment. The Slayer™ 750cfm (Part # SL-750-VS) features a 1-11/16" throttle bore and a 1.375" venturi.
Using fuel systems that other than what is offered in this engine package, may affect your warranty.
Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.
The satin covers below are by far the most popular.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
Billet Aluminum Breather set.
If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.
We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
Timing components: Rollmaster Race Billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line Rollmaster timing set with a torrington bearing. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower). These sets are hand matched for selective sizing. The picture above is the actual Rollmaster timing set used in our bbc engines.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $135.00, about three times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
Champ premium oil pan.
Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has an 8 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell, with reinforcing ribs. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All QRP Series engines will come with the Champ oil pan. If your car will not allow the use of the large capacity Champ oil pan, we have the same series pan in stock appearing form. 5qt. capacity and still has the windage tray, and crank scraper. Dipstick is included with this engine.
The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.
The quality of these pans far exceed any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.
Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, and is far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.
Genuine Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Pictured below are the front end accessories that are included with this engine. They will be installed on the engine.
High volume polished aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller.
Stainless Socket head bolts are used to mount the water pump.
Our 120 amp chrome plated one or three wire alternator.
Polished billet aluminum alternator bracket.
Chrome plated power steering pump and bracket with aluminum pulley.
File photos. Actual appearance may vary.
If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, then you should opt for the full size HEI dist with the OE style cap, not the Super Cap. Both distributors are identical, but the OE style coil cover does allow a slight more firewall tunnel clearance. Some models may not even allow the use the OE style HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you may choose our small base Ready To Run HEI distributor. It has a small base and is identical in size to the original point style distributor. It will require the use of an externally mounted coil.
The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.
TAYLOR SPIRO PRO SERIES 8mm UNIVERSAL IGNITION WIRES, 90 DEGREE BOOTS AND OUR 65K VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR ARE INCLUDED.
The distributor will be installed in the engine.
· Spiro-Pro 8mm Wire is the top choice of racers and enthusiasts due to its affordable value and overall high performance features.
· Spiro-Pro's two-layer 100% silicone inner core & outer jacket keeps the wires flexible for the life of your vehicle, maintaining its vibrant color with heat protection to 600º F.
· Taylor Cable’s Spiro-Pro wire consists of a high conductive spiral wound core with a Stainless Steel wire and covered with a fluorocarbon conductive material.
· Spiro-Pro features 350 ohms per foot resistance which provides more fire power to the spark plugs than OEM resistor core wires and has up to 10 times less resistance than standard resistor core wires.
· Spiro-Pro eliminates radio frequency interference (RFI) and is recommended when using a multi spark discharge, electronic ignition systems and other electronic components.
· Features Taylor Cable’s EXCLUSIVE low profile 100% silicone PROBOOTS® with vibration proof Stainless Steel double spring locking spark plug terminals.
· These are Universal Fit sets and will require cutting to fit, terminating, and booting the distributor end. Universal Fit sets are universal for most American made vehicles.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
Flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a 168-tooth or 153-tooth flexplate for manual transmissions.
Cost for this option is $105.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a 153 tooth and a 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI Billet Steel flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a PRW brand billet steel flywheel SFI rated 168-tooth or 153-tooth for manual transmissions. We highly recommend the SFI billet steel flywheel for those running hard. These are fully cnc'd and far superior in many ways compared to the regular cast iron flywheel.
Cost for the SFI billet flywheel option is $169.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a Chevy 153 tooth and a Chevy 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side.
Cost of the SFI damper upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power. This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. With a race balance job, all pistons and rods are match weighed to within 2/10's of a gram or less, and the final balance is brought down to around 1 gram plus or minus. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
Cost of this race balancing upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Scat 4340 Forged Crank: The forged Scat crank has a rating of 800+ HP. This is the ultimate upgrade for those wanting to run hard. Nos, blowers, turbos, are not an issue with this crank. Even without such power adders, this Crank offers great protection under the most severe conditions. This upgrade also comes with the HP high Performance King bearings. Should you decide to run power adders in the future, this would be essential. The fatigue life of the 4340 crank over the cast nodular is also greatly extended. We do offer this upgrade as part of many of our assemblies in some of our other listings. They have the key words, "fully forged," in the title.
Cost of this forged crank upgrade is $460.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Internal (neutral) balanced front. This low cost upgrade is the next best thing to an internal balanced crank. This Scat crank is similar in design to the one offered in this assembly, but it has an internal (neutral) balanced front. Running a crank that is neutral balanced in the front will allow the use of a non-weighted front damper. This will eliminate the additional mass from a weighted damper. Replacing the damper, if it's ever needed, becomes a simple procedure, and assures that the balancing is not affected. It's well known that under high rpm conditions, the front of the crank on externally balanced engines is at risk of breaking much more than those with an internal setup.
Cost of the internally balanced front crank is $49.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Polished single plane or dual plane Intake Manifold: This low cost upgrade really adds beauty to the engine for those who like the bright polished look on the engine. This is available on our Single plane or large runner dual plane intake, known as the Eliminator (very similar to the Edelbrock RPM Airgap).
Cost of the polished single or dual intake is $49.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Single plane or dual plane Speedmaster polished intake upgrade, your choice.
MSD STREET FIRE DISTRIBUTOR. The MSD Street Fire HEI distributor is a far superior unit compared the regular HEI unit that comes with this engine. The failure rate is near non existent. We find the advance curve characteristics also to be more in suitable for street rod engines. We have also noticed that the degree span from initial to total timing is a slightly closer, approx. 18 degrees variance. This allows the engine to have more initial timing when operating at low speed without the use of the vacuum advance.
Cost of the MSD is $108.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Dyno Tuning: This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT, (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still, occur but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us the seller and the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.
The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
We strongly suggest using our Powermaster 9100 or 9400 starter on this engine. These starters have proven to be highly reliable, and offer excellent header clearance.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING.
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We have built engines that cost upwards of $50,000. All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives. Their ages range from 40 to 67. We have a total of seven machinists/engine builders.
Excellent Product, Pro Quality, Super fast Shipping, Excellent Comminication. A+
Reviewed by l***r on March 25, 2017, 2:41 p.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
Great dudes!!! Helped me customize for my truck and was real reasonable for cost
Reviewed by a***d on Aug. 29, 2016, 8:46 p.m. | Permalink
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Excellent service, quick, efficient and very helpful.
Reviewed by 2***2 on April 12, 2016, 6:22 a.m. | Permalink
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