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SBC CHEVY TURN KEY STAGE 1.0 355 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 425 HP STREET ROD SETUP. RUNS ON MID-GRADE PUMP GAS. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT CRANK & RODS, NKB ALUMINUM HEADS. HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM.
Pictured below is our turn key engine with the single plane intake. The second picture further down in the add shows it with the optional dual plane intake. We also offer these intakes with a polished finish as an upgrade.
Introducing our Turn Key Stage 1.0 355 cid 425 HP engine.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN.
THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.
Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold. Polished finish also available as an upgrade.
Two year warranty; see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners as it may be referred to.
The horse power numbers were achieved with our cam choice # 1 and with our single plane intake manifold with a Quick Fuel Slayer 750 carb. Our test engine produced right at 425 HP at 6100 RPM; very impressive at that RPM range. We do not recommend the single plane intake on any car that is over approx. 3,250 lbs.
We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
One thing we have noticed on our dyno is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horsepower, but the torque band is moved down lower in the rpm range considerably. This increase in torque down low is what you want if youâ€™re sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.
This engine does not include a fuel pump. This engine is best suited to operate with an electric fuel pump, with a pressure regulator set at 6-6.5 psi. A 100-110 GPH rated pump should be sufficient. If you have chosen the de-tuned version of this engine, then the 90-100 GPH rated pump will suffice. It's best not use a higher capacity fuel pump than required. A chrome block off plate will be installed on the engine. The electric fuel pump system is a superior fuel delivery system compared to a mechanical system.
The build sheet is as follows:
The bare block is a fully machined re-manufactured true GM late model roller block. 1 pc. rear main seal style and designed for street or strip applications. This engine is bored and finish honed. All internals in this engine are 100% brand new.
The compression range will be approx. 10.3:1. This setup will certainly generate the highest horsepower when coupled with our cam choice # 1 or 2. We do not see any problems with a 10.3:1 compression range in light to medium weight cars.
This 4 bolt main bare block used for this engine is an OEM late model GM roller block that has been fully reconditioned/re-manufactured. All machine work has been performed. Mains were line honed, cylinders are bored and torque plate honed, decks have been trued. The rotating assembly and all other parts except the block are 100% brand new. This engine is set up with your choice of several different hydraulic roller cams.
The blocks used for building our Stage 1.0 355 do have four bolt main caps.
These blocks will accept mechanical fuel pumps.
As you can see in the picture above, this is a true roller block for those wanting to upgrade to a roller cam at a later date.
These are 1 pc. rear main seal style.
Mains have been line-honed to factory specs. This important procedure is often skipped, and failure to do this usually results in a short-lived build.
Block has been bored and torque plate honed. The use of a torque plate when honing is a very important procedure, and many blocks on the market don't have this performed.
Block has been decked to approx. 9.020. It is desirable to keep the deck as thick as possible, so as little as possible has been removed to correct any deviations. Our pistons have a taller than normal compression height. This allows the piston to have a very good quench zone of around .038-.042.
The use of the 1 pc. rear main seal block is highly desirable, as they are highly resistant to leaks. These blocks are all from the roller cam era (approx. 1992-2001). Between 2005 and 2008, we built approximately 900 383 engines using this exact style of block. We had extremely good results and no failures. Over 50% of them were built as hyd. roller setups, and were putting out around 415-500 HP, depending on piston choice, cam style, and profile.
We never used the early style blocks with 2 pc rear main seal to build engines, as we find them to be far past their prime, and prone to oil leakage.
We do have this engine available in many variations of build levels, (bare block, short block, long block, and turn key). See our other listings.
The 1 pc. rear main seal engine will fit perfectly in cars that have early style 2 pc. rear main seal blocks. There is no difference in the engine mount position. All early style transmission bell housings will mount perfectly to the Gen 2 block. There are many advancements on the late style blocks compared to early style 2 pc. blocks. The cost of rotating assembly parts for 1 pc. rear main seal blocks is the exact same price as the early 2 pc. RMS Gen 1. This is the style block most people are choosing.
As you can see pictured above, the stroker clearancing has been performed at the bottom of each cylinder, as well as the pan rail area. This is not required for the 355 engine, but all of our blocks are done this way, and should you decide to upgrade in the future to a 383 this procedure will not have to be done.
OUR NKB-200 HEADS.
NKB aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 64cc with cnc'd combustion chambers. 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs.
Our custom built NKB-200 aluminum heads with 200cc runners, 2.02/1.60 stainless valves, 1.46 diameter dual roller springs. These heads are not built by Procomp, and have no association with them in any way. We have sold over 1200 sets of these heads in the past year, and have seen zero problems. The performance is the best we have seen from a set of 200cc as cast heads.
In the flowchart above, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow numbers, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market. We guarantee the flow numbers to be accurate, as well as the horsepower numbers produced by them.
Most importantly, all three of these heads were tested by the same person, on the same machine, (Superflo bench 1020) using the same testing method, on the same day. These numbers show the true difference between each brand, and that's what counts.
The difference in horsepower and torque generated by these new heads is monumental compared to the Procomp heads.
Here is a rundown on the hardware used in the NKB heads and the assembly process.
The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM Competition valves is $239
We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our 383 and 406 engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.
Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.
Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16
Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.
Scat cast nodular steel crank, 3.48 stroke
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks is at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below 10.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer used by most others. We balance the rotating assembly to 2 grams or less. A balance sheet is included with your engine.
Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
We now use the Clevite A series bearings in this engine.
Our choice of rods are the Scat Pro Stock rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
WISECO 2618 FORGED PISTONS. FULL FLOATING WRIST PIN DESIGN WITH TWO VALVE RELIEFS.
The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons, starting with the Pro-Tru Street version made with 4032 forged alloy. The next level up would be the Professional series that are much more expensive and made from 2618 aircraft alloy.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
Many street rod engine builders are now using a very low cost piston known as a hyper-eutectic piston, usually under the brand name of Speed Pro or Keith Black. We would not even consider using such pistons, because when they are subjected to detonation, they can fragment away from the rod, allowing the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head.
Those type pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but in our opinion should never be used in engines such as a 350/355 built above 350 HP. The forged pistons are much more resistant to heat, especially when made from the 2618 alloy. This alloy is also very strong. In the event that excessive detonation occurs beyond the limits of this piston, it will not fragment and allow the connecting rod to destroy your engine. The 2618 piston will withstand much higher temperatures than other alloys, like the common 4032 and especially the hyper-eutectic pistons, and will stay intact.
Cam choice #1
PART # 180245-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .500/Exhaust .510
Duration @.050": Intake .225/Exhaust .231
Lobe sep. angle: 110Âº
PART # 180315-10 This is a roller cam for use in OE roller blocks.
Valve lift with 1.5 Rockers: Intake .465/Exhaust .470
Duration @.050": Intake .209/Exhaust .215
Lobe sep. angle: 110Âº
The rule of thumb for cam size: the smaller the cam in a given application, the better will be the low end response. One more benefit to the smaller cam is the reduced requirements for lower gearing and higher RPM stall converters. A final gear ratio of 310 would be acceptable with this cam. The bottom end power would be much better with this cam than the two other choices above.
This would be the only choice for running an overdrive transmission such as the 700R4 cruising at around 2,000 RPM in overdrive. A stall converter of 2,200 would be the minimum for this cam.
Do not choose the single plane Hurricane intake with this cam, as it would be totally impractical. Valve train life is extended greatly with this cam as compared to the others, and drivability is at its best. Low and mid throttle response is very strong. This cam choice will also produce the greatest amount of vacuum at idle compared to those listed above.
If you need help in selecting a cam to suit your needs, feel free to contact our tech. department.
THE TWO CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD.
We have had a few customers who wanted to run this engine in a very heavy vehicle such as a 3/4 ton or 1 ton dually, 4x4 quad cab truck, or Chevy Suburban. These vehicles weigh approx. 6,000 lbs or more. Even if you don't plan to do any towing or hauling heavy items, none of the three cams listed would be suitable for this.
We do have cams for such applications.
A tall gear would be acceptable with this setup, but some cars came equipped with a 273 final gear. This gear came into use in the mid 70's during the fuel crisis. This gear should not be used with any street rod engine. The tallest gear that should be used would be the more common 307.
If you're running a T350 trans, the tall gear would also allow for a decent highway cruising RPM range. If I were to choose this cam and had a medium to heavy car, I would go with a 323 to have decent off the line acceleration and comfortable highway cruising. You would still want the engine to run at approx. 1,800-2,000 RPM during highway cruising speed to keep the engine from loading up with carbon.
DELPHI ANTI PUMP-UP LIFTERS
We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.
Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.
Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake (1st pic below) should only be used on cars that are very lightweight and have good hood clearance.
Dual Plane Intake shown below. This is a large runner dual plane intake. They make excellent mid range power.
Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.
Pictured below are our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost, since the valve covers are included with this engine.
RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.
THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.
OUR RETRO STYLE TALL FINNED VALVE COVERS HAVE BECOME VERY POPULAR. YOUR CHOICE.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
ARP HEAD BOLTS AND WASHERS
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
ARP ROCKER ARM STUDS ARE THE ONLY STUDS WE USE IN OUR ENGINES.
The timing components are the Cloyes Race Billet double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3
We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. We use this exact set in our 421 and 427 SBC engines. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this setup is approx $129, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a fully array of lightening holes.
It may be overkill to use this expensive setup, but the attraction, besides being the most precise, is that it comes in three sizes. Many times a regular timing set will have too much tension in the chain. If the mains have been line bored or line honed, this can create a loose chain effect.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups.
Scorpion Race series 1.5 OR 1.6 ratio roller rockers with 7/16 ARP rocker studs. We recommend the 1.5 ratio for better low end response and extended valve train life.
ONE OF THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.
We were amazed at the low level of sound produced in the valve train when we did a test run using our first set of Scorpions. We attribute this quiet operation to the close tolerances in the trunnion section. The trunnion barrels are also micro polished.
The rockers have a lifetime warranty. The aluminum body is made from a 7000 series aircraft alloy. Most rockers have a considerable amount of side play in the trunnion section, and may have an excessive amount of needle bearing clearance. The Scorpion does not have much of a loose feel in the trunnion. Many round track and drag racers run these at very high rpm levels and even run them on solid roller setups. With the milder spring pressures of our engines, these rockers should last a lifetime.
All Scorpion Rockers Feature:
Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined.
STAINLESS FLEXIBLE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK. BILLET ALUMINUM HANDLE.
Included with all our sbc engines.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Champ premium oil pan.
Pictured below is the oil pan included with this engine. The Champ oil pan used on this engine has a 5 qt. capacity. It has an elaborate oil control system. Features windage tray, crank scraper, .055 gauge outer shell. Champ oil pans are made in the USA. All of our engines will come with the Champ oil pan. We also offer the 8qt Champ pan as an optional upgrade. If your car will not allow the use of the large capacity Champ oil pan.
We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
We use this premium studded mini nut set for oil pan and valve cover fasteners. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other builders. We use this set on all our engines.
Listed below are the items that are installed on the outside of the engine. These items are what make this a "Turn Key" engine.
BILLET ALUMINUM BREATHER, AND PCV BREATHER.
Pictured below is our exhaust evacuation system. You may choose the breather/pcv setup pictured above or the exhaust evac. system. If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend the exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best, but the vacuum is also very erratic.
It would be fair to say that the fuel to air ratio is somewhat erratic when using a pcv system on a street rod of this level. The evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi burned by-products from the engine oil and combustion process.
Another downside to using the pcv system is that the vacuum levels are somewhat insufficient at medium to high RPM to handle the blow by gases generated, especially with a new high compression engine. This lower than normal level of vacuum is a result of the size of the heads, cam, carb and intake. Couple this with the higher than normal compression ratio, and you may have problems from an excess of blow by gases building up in the crankcase.
Oil leakage from engine seals and oil forced out of orifices and around gaskets are common with engines that are unable to rid themselves of excess crankcase pressure. On a stock low compression engine, the pcv system operates much better than on a street rod or race engine.
We will let you decide what setup you want. After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup will usually be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup. There is no up charge for the evac system. It requires a bit more work to install, but is relatively simple.
If you do choose the exhaust evac system there are few other recommendations I would like to make. The bullet style perforated mufflers such as those made by Magnaflow as well as many other companies must be used, and they sound the best in our opinion, but most importantly they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is one of the popular brands of the true straight through mufflers on the market, and there are several others. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. I find the 12-16 inch length to sound the best. These type mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. These are not to be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, those are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers such as Flowmaster, creates a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. They say chambered mufflers help bottom end throttle response, and yes they do, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine. I can assure you the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, not to mention allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
As you can see in the picture below, these timing pointers have a glove like fit.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.
If your engine is equipped with a manual trans. flywheel, there is no torque converter involved, and installing the starter with the engine on the stand and establishing ring gear clearance is a must. There is no need to bolt on the clutch pressure plate. The thick flywheel is flat and true without anything bolted onto it.
High volume polished aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality unit.
120 AMP ONE WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AND ALUMINUM BRACKET KIT.
WATER PUMP, CRANK, AND POWER STEERING PULLEY WITH BRACKETS, INCLUDED.
If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, then you should opt for the full size HEI dist with the OE style cap, not the Super Cap. Both distributors are identical, but the OE style coil cover does allow a slight more firewall tunnel clearance. Some models may not even allow the use the OE style HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you may choose our small base Ready To Run HEI distributor. It has a small base and is identical in size to the original point style distributor. It will require the use of an externally mounted coil.
The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.
TAYLOR SPIRO PRO SERIES 8mm UNIVERSAL IGNITION WIRES, 90 DEGREE BOOTS AND OUR 65K VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR ARE INCLUDED.
The distributor will be installed in the engine.
Â· Spiro-Pro 8mm Wire is the top choice of racers and enthusiasts due to its affordable value and overall high performance features.
Â· Spiro-Pro's two-layer 100% silicone inner core & outer jacket keeps the wires flexible for the life of your vehicle, maintaining its vibrant color with heat protection to 600Âº F.
Â· Taylor Cableâ€™s Spiro-Pro wire consists of a high conductive spiral wound core with a Stainless Steel wire and covered with a fluorocarbon conductive material.
Â· Spiro-Pro features 350 ohms per foot resistance which provides more fire power to the spark plugs than OEM resistor core wires and has up to 10 times less resistance than standard resistor core wires.
Â· Spiro-Pro eliminates radio frequency interference (RFI) and is recommended when using a multi spark discharge, electronic ignition systems and other electronic components.
Â· Features Taylor Cableâ€™s EXCLUSIVE low profile 100% silicone PROBOOTSÂ® with vibration proof Stainless Steel double spring locking spark plug terminals.
Â· These are Universal Fit sets and will require cutting to fit, terminating, and booting the distributor end. Universal Fit sets are universal for most American made vehicles.
PRO RACE BRAND HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.
Pro-Race brand damper is used on all of our engines.
INTERNALLY BALANCED, 6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.
1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
HIGH QUALITY POLISHED ALUMINUM TIMING COVER.
We use Felpro seals and gaskets with our timing cover.
Our new Stage 2.0 383 engine is premium pump gas friendly, with very good street manners. NEVER run regular 87 octane in this engine, premium only. Should you ever hear any sign of pinging or clatter in the engine when accelerating, reduce timing one or two degrees. You can never totally trust the accuracy of timing components. If you picked cam choice 4, you may run mid grade fuel. We use a slightly lower compression piston with that cam choice.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 ex cab or quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, or one ton dually, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, I strongly recommend the de-tuned version of this engine. We can build this engine with a reduced compression ratio. We offer a special cam for such use at no additional cost if the truck is very heavy or is being used for towing.
None of the three cam choices we offer would be suitable for use in a very heavy truck. The intake choice would then have be the dual plane Crosswind. Single plane intakes do produce more top end horse power than the dual plane version, but they also move the torque band up higher in the RPM range. The dual plane Crosswind intake functions exactly as an Edlebrock RPM Airgap. Our Stage 2.0 engine comes with a three key way timing gear, and we do set it up in the middle, (straight up) position. You may experiment with this at some point to optimize your torque curve.
Ignition timing should be run at 30-32 rather than the more aggressive 33-35 degrees total when running this engine in heavy vehicles. The above changes would help move the torque band down lower in the RPM range. The HP numbers would fall to approx. 405-410 when coupled with our special order cam that has a profile for very heavy vehicles. Setup with such a cam the engine would have a very strong pull up to around 5,200 RPM.
This setup in a very heavy vehicle would be extremely durable, and you may even be able to run a mid-grade fuel as the compression ratio would be slightly below 10:1, but do this with caution, and listen for detonation (ping and clatter). Should you decide to have the engine built for heavy duty use, ask for cam part number 180315-10. The cost for any of the above would remain the same.
For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend the extra deep dish -20cc pistons with the 72cc heads regardless of the vehicle.
Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We build many engines that cost upwards of $50,000.00.
We have dyno tested the original setup very extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.
This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.
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