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BBC CHEVY HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM EXTREME TORQUE TURN KEY 454/468 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 600 HP & 539 lb. feet of torque at 5300 rpm
RUNS ON PUMP GAS. WISECO FORGED PISTONS AND SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS, DART BIG M SPORTSMAN BLOCK, PC ALUMINUM HEADS
This engine comes fully dressed out on the front as pictured above. The carb, distributor, wires and starter are not included with this engine. We have those items available in our other listings.
FULLY ASSEMBLED FROM INTAKE TO OIL PAN
Our 454/468 Hydraulic Roller cam engine will produce 600 horse power at approx. 6100 rpm. The build sheet is at the lower part of this listing. This engine is an excellent choice for use in classic street rods, sport trucks, 4x4 trucks, and can be used as a daily driver. High mileage use is not a problem with this engine. This is engine may also be setup for use in larger work trucks, or motor homes. We can also set any of our engines up for marine use.
This engine will produce more than double the horse power of the original bbc 396, 427 and 454's and much greater torque. Pump gas friendly. For those wanting to put this engine in a classic car or sport truck, select cam choice # 1 or # 2 with the Hurricane intake. This engine will deliver very impressive power in the lower rpm range, and have a very high degree of drivability and long life.
Two year warranty, see details below.
This engine uses a brand new Dart Big M Sportsman block, (standard deck height) with all new internals.
This engine is designed to have a very high level of drivability, or street manners.
We have displayed many pictures of this engine at various angles. The turn key package looks great at any angle.
Below is a straight down image.
The colored bolt caps shown on the engine are not included. We offer the bolt caps for sale in our other listings.
The ARP head bolts have an attractive black oxide finish on them, with the branded ARP logo on each bolt, and the intake bolts are made from a high grade semi polished stainless steel and have an allen head socket design. Many people prefer the engine without the colored bolt caps, so we have decided to not include them any longer.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the Extreme Torque 454 engine is a better choice than any of the original equipment big block engines produced by GM.
1. The 454 will accelerate any heavy car much better than any of the underpowered original GM bbc engines.
2. The exhaust note from this big block engine is much deeper than that of the typical stock GM big block engines.
3. Installing this engine in heavy cars or trucks without killing acceleration, or having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter is a real plus. This engine will accelerate a 7500 lb vehicle much better than any stock bbc engine.
4. Low maintenance and high drivability even in very heavy cars and trucks, while generating up to 600 hp at the same cost as building a 454 stock engine.
5. Longevity and reliability. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There's nothing unsafe about running an engine that's well built like this up to 5,800 rpm. The hydraulic roller cam is very reliable and will not require a bronze distributor gear, as it has a normal cast gear. Our aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. All of our valves are from PBM, and are considered to be very high quality valves.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, or truck with this engine, the resale value would be much greater.
7. The cost of the Extreme Torque hydraulic roller 454/468 engine offers much more driving enjoyment than any stock bbc build up ever did.
We do a full test run using an engine test mule on every engine we build. The engine is run for two intervals of 20 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you receive the engine, it will be ready to install and run. We also include an engine stand as pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 10/25/2016, we completed installation of our second brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. This dyno is dedicated for dyno testing and tuning on our bbc engine line only.
De-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos will move the torque into the low rpm range, and is very desirable if you’re sporting around on the street, rather than all-out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better. We can help you with a cam and intake selection that best suits your needs.
The compression range will be approx. anywhere from 8.5:1 up to 10.2:1 depending on how we set it up based on your needs. The Wiseco forged pistons are highly resistant to the damaging effects of detonation.
The build sheet is as follows:
Pictured below is the new Dart Big M Sportsman block. This block is the absolute ultimate in quality, durability, and value.
Dart Block Specs. and features.
- Standard 9.800" deck ht.
- Siamesed extra thick cylinder walls to resist cracking and improve ring seal (minimum .300" thick with 4.625" bore).
- Uses +.300" tall Gen VI style lifters.
- Scalloped outer water jacket walls improve coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.
- 4 bolt ductile iron main caps have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.
- True priority main oil system lubricates the main bearings before the lifters.
- Oil filter pad is drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.
- Lifter valley head stud bosses prevent blown head gaskets.
- Rear main cap uses standard oil pump and two piece seal - no adapter required!
- Mechanical fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts, and side and front motor mounts simplify installation in any chassis.
- Dual oil pan bolt patterns fit standard and notched oil pans.
The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.
We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.
We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.
We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.
The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.
Below are the specs of the rotating assembly portion of this engine.
The picture above is a file photo of the rotating assembly that comes with this engine. See the detailed info below for the actual pictures and items included in this engine.
Fully balanced in house.
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
Listed below is a complete breakdown of all the parts that are included in this engine.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.
The Wiseco fully forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They offer several price levels of pistons, starting with the Pro-Tru Street version made with 4032 forged alloy. The next level up would be the Professional series that are much more expensive and made from 2618 aircraft alloy.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons are very close in comparison to the Professional series as they are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns.
We have seen a few engine builders use the non-forged hypereutectic pistons, and we find them to be very risky for any carbureted street rod engine. We would not even consider using such pistons. If the pistons are non-forged or forged 4032 alloy, they may fragment from the effects of detonation. This can then allow the connecting rod to destroy the block, crank, and cylinder head. Those types of pistons are fine for stock or very mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels. These type of pistons, especially the hypereutectic version, will not stand much detonation. The forged 2618 alloy piston is so much more resistant to the effects of detonation, and heat.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made Wiseco pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller than nearly all catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the new Dart block to achieve a zero deck. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing and still not ending too far below stock deck height. On our bbc engines we actually leave the piston about .003 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock.
Since nearly all bbc catalog pistons on the market sit .020 below the surface of a virgin block, the only way to achieve a zero deck or close to it would be to cut approx. .020 off the deck surface. This compromises the integrity of the block, in our opinion.
Another good of our taller compression height is that the ring land above the top ring is much stronger by being .010 thicker. When pistons encounter the effects of detonation, it is not uncommon to see pistons with the ring land above the top ring broken off. The thicker ring land also makes a better heat sink.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
Our custom made Wiseco forged pistons are made from 2618 aircraft alloy. We find this alloy to be much more suitable for high performance engines than the common 4032 forged alloy. You will usually see the higher end pistons on the market using 2618 aircraft alloy.
Why go with 2618 forged pistons? If you encounter certain tuning issues, detonation is highly probable, and it's effects can cause severe damage to your engine. The 2618 forged piston is able to withstand the damaging effects from detonation to a higher degree than the lower cost 4032 forged pistons, especially non-forged hypereutectic pistons such as Speed Pro or Keith Black, and many others.
We have built approximately 3500 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor has there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
The pictures below are file photos of our Wiseco pistons.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft supplied with this assembly:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing. This crank is suitable for use up to approx. 650 hp.
Our choice of rods are the SCAT COMPETITION SERIES rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.
The Scat Pro-Comp extreme duty I-beam rods should not be mistaken for ProComp rods. These rods are made exclusively by Scat, and have nothing to do with the ProComp company. The critical sizing and installation of the ARP cap screws is performed on a Sunnen machine in the USA by Scat Industries. These rods are excellent for those wanting the extra security offered by a rod with 7/16 ARP cap screws.
Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using this rod in all of our Stage 4 and up SBC engines. We also use this rod in our big block 540/496/555 engines, making approx. 700+hp.
If you do a search on the Scat Pro-Comp rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. These rods are run in engines that not only produce high horsepower levels, but also run at continuous RPM. Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod.
The fact that these rods are incredibly strong and well made, coupled with the fact they are light weight and offer better clearance than any H-Beam rod on the market, made it an easy decision to use them in all of our high horsepower street/strip engines.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name, and series of every part used in our engines.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
HASTINGS 2M SERIES MOLY RINGS
We now use the Clevite bearings in our engines.
Pro Race Brand harmonic damper, 7.0" diameter, included. These are very high quality items.
We have noticed others using a low grade knockoff brand damper/balancer, and we have encountered them in the past. They are substandard in appearance, and are often out of spec. The timing marks were also poorly marked on some of the balancers we have come across. Another problem with low grade dampers is the elastomer bonding can lose its adherence to the inner and outer structure. This problem is referred to as a slipped damper. We have only encountered this once in 10 years with the Pro-Race brand dampers.
We know of several competitors including these balancers on there engines. The Pro Race brand is far superior to most any we have ever seen. They were once known as a knockoff product, and have become one the best values on the market, without comprising quality whatsoever.
HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.
This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down to below 10.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your assembly.
Three CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
Our Procomp bbc heads are used on many of bbc engines.
PC aluminum heads with 300cc runners, 119cc combustion chambers, 2.250/1.88 stainless PBM valves, 1.46 diameter Melling dual roller springs. These cyl. heads are made by Procomp. We use our own hardware and do our own assembly.
Here is a rundown on the hardware we are using in the bbc Procomp heads.
PBM Competition Series Stainless Valves.
NON MAGNETIC stainless steel PBM Competition Series valves, swirl finished one piece, undercut and backcut. We have used the same valve for years, with zero failures. Non magnetic is very important. Our cost on these valves is around double the price of some low cost valves on the market. We sell these valves for just under $200 in our other listings. They are the only grade of valves we use in our bbc heads. Many head builders use the low cost valves, but we do not use them and never will. If the valves pull a magnet, they are not high temp stainless. They may be stainless, but they have very low nickel content in them.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
We use Melling brand dual springs that have a 1.46 diameter, with an internal damper. These are made in the USA. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they are usually very short lived.
We use only Comp Cams Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit looser than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they are made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. We have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
We hone every guide in the heads with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. This procedure is not performed at the factory due to the fact some engine/head builders prefer to establish the valve to guide clearance and finish in different ranges. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems.
Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.
We have dynoed at least 300 engines with the Procomp heads and they performed faultlessly. We have never experienced failure of any kind with the Procomp bbc heads. See important article concerning the PC heads at the bottom of the ad.
Fel Pro 1017 premium race grade series head gaskets, ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.
Pictured below is our Speedmaster single plane intake. We also offer the Edelbrock line of single and dual plane intakes as an upgrade.
We are offering three cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.
Cam Choice # 1 By Comp Cams.
Part number: 01-000-8 Special Grind.
112 lobe sep.
Peak advertised hp of 600 would come in around 6100 rpm. A 2750-3000 stall converter is recommended for better acceleration when using this cam and a final gear of 3.55 or numerically higher. With our single plane intake, this cam will achieve the advertised horse power. Cam lope is radical at idle. Street manners are not this cams strong point. Vehicles weighing over 4250 should not use this cam choice.
Cam Choice # 2 By Comp Cams.
Part number: 01-461-8
112 lobe sep.
Cam choice # 2 offers increased drivability and improved low end power, with very little sacrifice of the max power as compared to cam choice # 1, a 15-20 hp decrease at the most. The torque numbers will remain nearly the same and come in approximately 150 rpm lower compared to cam choice # 1. Valve train stability and longevity is increased with this cam. This cam is recommended for use in light to medium weight vehicles with tall gearing, and sport trucks. Max power will be achieved at approx. 5850 rpm. You may use the single plane intake with this cam and not affect the low end power to any noticeable amount.
By using cam choice # 2, your valve train will be much more reliable and longevity is certainly improved. Cam choice # 2 will allow you to run a stall converter in the 2500-2750 rpm range. Final gearing when used in a car or sport truck could actually be in the 3.55 range or even taller, and overdrive use may be possible. Mileage with taller gearing is also a plus. This cam would be most suitable in heavy vehicles weighing up to 4500 lbs. Drivability with this cam is fair to decent depending on your vehicle weight and final gearing. This cam may not develop enough vacuum to operate power brakes.
Below are our dyno results on one of our 468 engines with cam choice # 2 with a single plane intake. You results may vary depending on intake choice. The horse power numbers will always improve anywhere from 5-10 more than what the dyno results show after the rings have fully seated.
Official Dyno report on our 468 engine with cam choice #2 and a single plane intake.
Cam choice # 2 and a single plane intake.
Part number: 01-424-8
110 lobe sep.
Cam choice # 3 offers a huge amount of bottom end torque. This cam selection is the best choice for cars that have very tall gearing or overdrive transmissions. This cam will allow the engine to operate in the 2150 rpm range. Very good acceleration with excellent street manners. The peak horse power falls about 15-20 under cam choice # 2. This cam would also be excellent for heavy vehicles, quad cab 4x4 pickups. Max power is achieved at approx. 5700 or less. This cam has been very popular for those more concerned about drivability and outright longevity of the valve train and engine engine. The valve train wear with this cam would be very low. Off idle power is decent. We see no drawbacks to going with this cam. The power in the low rpm range is amazing. Vacuum should be enough for operating power brakes. Long range cruising and operating air conditioning is not an issue with this cam.
HOWARDS MAX EFFORT LIFTERS & HOWARDS CHROMOLY PUSHRODS.
We use Howards brand premium pushrods in all of our engines. They are lightweight in design, yet very strong. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.
Our choice of lifters are the Howards brand Max Effort tie bar lifters. These lifters are much costlier than the regular tie bar roller lifters, and have many unique features. If you select cam choice 3, we will use the regular Howards tie bar street rod lifters.
We have several different options in valve covers. Here are our most common choices:
Billet Aluminum Breather set.
If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.
We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. VERY FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.
We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.
304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.
Timing components: Cloyes Race Billet double roller timing set. Part # 9-3645X3
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.
We use the top of the line Cloyes timing set. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common true double roller setup. The chain is made in Germany, and the sprockets are hardened billet steel (upper and lower) and made in the USA. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $141, about four times the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will notice the upper gear has a full array of lightening holes.
This top of the line timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.
SCORPION RACING ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS.
THE BEST HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING ROCKER ARMS MANUFACTURED IN THE USA.
All Scorpion Rockers Feature:
Needle Bearing Fulcrum and Roller Tip, Centerless Ground Trunnion, Centerless Ground Pin & Roller, Burr-Free Thru Hole in Trunnion, Large Machined Seat, Thick Walled Adjusting Nut, Pedestals Machined from Solid Steel, Black Oxide Coated Steel Parts, & 100% CNC Machined. Other benefits include:
If you’ve read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a very similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell off-shore, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The aluminum alloys used are never aircraft aluminum alloys as are used in all USA made roller rockers. They often mention the alloy as being 6061, and that is a very soft form of aluminum. The 6061 alloy used on these will assure rocker-flex on any higher than stock spring pressures, and this will affect performance. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.
We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.
We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a very low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.
We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.
We use Scorpion, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, and Comp Gold Arc rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge. Do a Google search on this subject and you will know then what we’re talking about.
Champ premium oil pan.
The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.
This is an extended capacity oil pan. The special pickup tube is designed for this oil pan. If you think you may have a clearance issue with the 8 qt pan, let us know and we can use the stock style pan.
The 8 qt pan is approx half an inch deeper than a stock pan, and the kickouts on the side are at the lower section of the sump. They start to swell outward about three inches from the bottom, approx. 3 inches or less on each side. Most vehicles have no problem with this type of pan and it's certainly a much better setup than a conventional oil pan.
The quality of these pans far exceed any of the lower priced oil pans used on many engines.
Our choice of oil pan fasteners is our premium studded mini nut set. The nuts in this kit have serrated faces and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan to the engine, and is far superior to the typical bolts used by others. We use this same kit on our very high end engines.
Genuine Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.
The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Pictured below are the front end accessories that are included with this engine. They will be installed on the engine.
This is our polished high volume long style water pump with aluminum impeller. This is a very high quality pump.
Our 120 amp chrome plated one or three wire alternator.
Stainless socket head bolt set with stainless washers.
Polished billet aluminum alternator bracket.
We are confident that the price we have on our engine will never be matched by our competition. If you have any application or technical questions, feel free to email or call us at 423-722-5152.
We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.
This engine has a Two Year Warranty with unlimited mileage.
Always feel free to give us a call if you have a question about tuning.
You can enjoy your engine with occasional spirited driving, as it is well designed for it, but we will not cover damage caused by racing or improper tuning. A rev limiter and fuel to air ratio monitoring device must be used on this engine. The rev limiter should be set to cut off at its peak horsepower or less if you choose, and this should allow many years of service without a problem.
Your carb should be tuned to allow the correct fuel to air ratio. This ratio can vary depending on many factors such as altitude, vehicle weight, gearing, type of driving, etc. These values should be in the recommended safe zone.
Continue reading for more detailed information on timing and carburetion. You must follow the oil recommendations listed below.
Tuning, maintenance, and oil recommendations.
This engine must be maintained with oil specifically designed for high performance engines. The life of the engine can be greatly extended if you run a race grade engine oil such a Valvoline VR1 or the many other race grade engine oils on the market. Most are available in synthetic grade for those who prefer it. However, we recommend running non synthetic racing oil for at least 1000 miles to ensure the rings have seated completely.
Rather than using mileage as an indicator of ring sealing, it’s better to use oil consumption as a guide. We highly recommend Valvoline VR1 Racing oil in the silver bottle. This brand of oil has an exceptional reputation, and is used by many high performance engine builders, racers, and many street rod owners. This oil is totally suitable for street use. You don't have to run the off road series racing oil. The street/strip series in the light silver bottle is suitable.
The 10w-30 weight is recommended for year round use on SBC engines, and BBC engines may run the 10w-40 or 15w-40 grade during hot weather, but not during temps below 30 degrees. BBC engines are known for fluctuations in oil pressure moreso than the SBC engines, so the heavier weight oil may stabilize oil pressure readings. However, the 15w-40 should not be used during very cold winter weather.
Oil pressure of 50-60 lbs in the upper rpm range on a fully warmed up engine is nothing to worry about. You may also notice that oil pressure drops at idle to approx 25-30 lbs when the engine is fully warmed up during very hot weather. This is somewhat common and no cause for alarm.
If your engine has a Dart block, then it has priority main oiling. This block routes the oil in a very different pathway compared to a GM block. The mains and rod bearings as well as the crankshaft are well protected with an ample supply of oil even when the oil pressure numbers are lower than you think they should be.
You may permanently run a 15w-40 grade oil if your engine is a big block if you feel it will help the oil pressure, and it sometimes does. Small block engines may even make use of the heavier weight oil, but only in the warmest of weather. We have implemented many safeguards in the build of our engines to stabilize the oil pressure. It is recommended that your first run of oil should be the 15w-40 weight. This allows a greater amount of protection to the engine during the initial break-in period.
Racing oil must be changed more often than conventional oil. Every 2000 miles or less would be optimal.
There are many special additives in race grade oils that are not in conventional oil. These additives are very valuable for high performance engines. Never add anything to racing oil. This oil has exactly what is needed to protect a high performance engine. Some of these oils will state that they are low or possibly non-detergent, and that is a desirable trait of racing oil.
The anti-foaming agents in race grade oils are much better than what you would find in conventional motor oil. Race grade oils have higher than normal amounts of the zinc compounds in them, and there are many components in the engine that can make great use of these additives.
If you are running a mechanical fuel pump on our engine, you absolutely must follow the oil guidelines to the letter.
We recommend running an electric fuel pump on this engine due to the higher than normal eccentric cam lobe failure rate experienced with engines running a mechanical fuel pump.
The high volume mechanical fuel pumps put an additional strain on the eccentric fuel pump lobe on the cam, and modern roller cam technology may not be addressing the eccentric cam lobe design like it once did years ago, since very few people are running mechanical fuel pumps anymore and the roller cams and lifters do not require these special treatments.
Modern oils further the problem due to the absence of high levels of the zinc compounds they once had. These factors can spell doom for the eccentric cam lobe on the cam in these engines.
If you insist on running a mechanical fuel pump, then using a race grade oil becomes essential. To further protect the cam, we offer a very special fuel pump rod made from an ultralight material. It’s made from a proprietary blended, carbon reinforced, bearing-grade polymer. This fuel pump rod only weighs 25 grams, and is very strong yet gentle on the eccentric cam lobe.
Unlike the common light weight hollow rod on the market, this rod is one third the weight, and a bit more costly. By reducing the reciprocating mass of the fuel pump rod, the load on the eccentric cam lobe is greatly reduced. We offer this rod in our other listings.
As for oil filters, we recommend AC Delco, selected K&N, Moroso, or any of the other high quality oil filters on the market.
Be aware that some K&N filters have a very low micron rating, and we don't recommend them. All oil filters have a micron particle rating. If you want to run a low micron rated oil filter during the break-in period, that would be acceptable. Do not run the engine at high rpm during this break-in period with a low micron oil filter. The filtration on these oil filters is high, but the restriction is also very high and may reduce oil flow (volume) when running at wide open throttle or when the engine is cold.
We have seen some filters rated up to 61 micron size, and these would be great to run at the track, but we find its micron rating on the high side and may not provide as much protection as a filter with a lower micron rating.
Filters in the micron range of 20-25 offer the best overall protection and do not interfere with oil flow/volume to any great extent. AC Delco and K&N filters have a very strong case and this is very desirable if you have purchased one of our engines with a Dart block. The Dart block has a priority main oiling system, and pressure in the oil filter can be very high when the engine is cold. You must always allow the engine to warm up completely before any hard acceleration.
In our Dart block, the Wiseco forged pistons that we use are not made from the low expansion 4032 alloy material. Ours pistons are all made from 2618 Aircraft alloy. This type of alloy has a greater amount of expansion in the bore until fully warmed up, but not as much as some of the all out race pistons. Nonetheless, they do have more clearance until warmed up. Therefore, let the engine warm up before accelerating all out. You can start up and go at a normal driving pace with it cold for 10 min. or longer.
You must use a rev-limiter on this engine. Should you have a warranty issue, proof will be required. A rev-limiter will allow you the freedom to drive without having to monitor the tach. Every car from the factory has this feature. Set the limiter to the peak hp rating of this engine or less for added protection.
Engine break in: As soon as your engine is installed, check and reset the timing if needed. Get the car on the road as soon as possible, and run the engine in a somewhat aggressive mode, not exceeding 4,500 rpm for the first few hundred miles.
Drive safely please; we’re not asking you to drive fast or aggressively. Just keep your engine under load more than normal. Drive it in a very inefficient manner. Keep the engine with load against it, and bring the rpm up and back down to seat the rings much better and faster. This allows the rings to expand in a perfect circle and with greater pressure against the cylinder walls to establish an even wear pattern.
Besides for tuning, another reason that race engines are dynoed is to put a good number of passes on the engine under heavy load, as this will seat the rings very quickly, making the engine somewhat ready for racing. Failing to do this not only delays the break-in, but can permanently stop the engine from establishing a good wear pattern on the cylinder walls.
If you have opted for our dyno-tuned version of this engine then ring seating will be partially established. The dyno has a computer controlled break-in mode that we use before doing any dyno testing for power output. Should you opt for the dyno tuning package, it does not mean that your engine is ready for synthetic racing oil. Your engine will continue to seat the rings in to an even higher degree after 300-500 miles of driving.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTICE
This engine does not come with oil in it. The oil that was used during the test run or dyno tuning will be drained as this is required by the shipping companies. We also prefer draining the oil as this gives us a chance to examine it for of metal particles. We use a System One reusable filter on the engine during test running or dyno tuning. The filter is removed and is also closely examined for metal particles or debris. To prevent oil from dripping onto the shipping pallet, we re-install a new medium length regular spin-on oil filter.
You must prime this oil filter. Priming is not done when changing oil on a well broken-in warm engine that has been running moments before changing the oil. Your new engine that has been sitting around for weeks, if not months, MUST be primed.
You may replace the oil filter that comes on the engine with a brand that you prefer, but do opt for the medium length version, as this will help maintain oil pressure and volume much better than the short version.
If your engine has our Champ stock appearance pan on it, fill with approx 5-6 qts. of oil.
If you have the extended capacity Champ pan with kick outs, then you will use approx. 7.5-8 qts of oil. Just remember to fill/prime the oil filter with oil before starting the engine.
Tuning recommendations. Very important.
You must be sure that your air to fuel ratio is correct. We strongly recommend purchasing a fuel to air ratio monitor. Proper carb jetting is also a must.
If your carb is running too lean, detonation is at your door.
If it is excessively rich, cylinder wash-down from excessive fuel will destroy your bore finish, pistons, and rings quickly, not to mention cause excessive fuel consumption.
A tad on the rich side is not a problem and can help resist detonation; a tad on the lean side will generate the most power and increase fuel mileage.
The optimal air to fuel ratio is approx. 13:1 Set total timing at 30-34 degrees. Total timing refers to the reading at 4500 rpm with the vac. advance disconnected. The closer to the lower number (30 degrees) the total timing is, the safer your engine will be. Do not worry about initial timing, as it will be determined by the total timing.
You may try running the vacuum advance if you have our regular HEI in this engine. Cam choice 1 may not allow proper operation of this, but the smaller cams may work well. Be sure to run the vacuum line directly to your intake manifold. The vacuum advance is adjustable and we recommend that you try it out. If you feel the vac. advance is putting too much initial timing into the engine, you should be able to adjust some of this out of it. Our HEI units have an adjustable vac. advance. When setting the total timing, do not have the vac. advance hooked up. If you can bring your initial timing up from where it is at idle by running the vac. advance, the engine will operate tremendously better, have much better fuel mileage, and run cooler.
If you hear valve clatter (as it's called), then you need to try and adjust this out of the vac. advance. If valve clatter (pinging, as it's also known) is present under load, then you may not be able to run the vac. advance, but if the valve clatter is coming in around 3500 rpm or higher, then this could be a sign your total timing is set too high. Try backing it off a few degrees before giving up on the vac. advance. Valve clatter/pinging is actually the sound of the detonation occurring in the engine, and can be very damaging.
Be sure to have a high amperage battery and high quality starter. The battery must be 850 cca or more. Use heavy gauge battery cables. If you have a hard cranking issue, purchase an in-car timing controller. This will allow you to control your timing for optimal performance and ease of starting.
Do not run regular gas in this engine, no matter how much you have reduced the timing. It may not be enough! You may have run an old car in the past that pinged and clattered under load for many miles, and this didn't seem to hurt it. Most cars from the 60's and 70's had very low compression, especially when nearly worn out, and this is why the detonation did not destroy the engine. Excessive pinging or valve clatter, as it's often referred to, may destroy this engine very quickly. Very light pinging now and then is unlikely to do any damage, but it certainly will when there is an excessive amount of it under load. If you have chosen cam choice 3 or 4, we will reduce the compression ratio, and you may run mid-grade fuel, but we would prefer you run at premium grade fuel, especially during very hot weather.
Let any engine with compression numbers above 10:1 clatter and ping for very long, and you will lose the engine due to detonation, and in some cases this can happen very quickly.
Spark Plugs: We recommend the Autolite brand, part number Autolite 3923. Most of our engines include the correct spark plugs. We also offer a premium NGK plug that is highly suitable for this engine. Racing grade plugs are fine as they have a few features that are desirable for certain types of driving. Keep the temp in the low to middle range. Use a plug that's too hot, and you are once again close to detonation/pre-ignition; use a plug that's too cold and they will foul constantly, run poorly when cruising at low speed, and be difficult to start.
Some of our engines come with spark plugs in them, depending on the package you purchase. You may also use NGK part # NGK 4544, a plug that is one step lower in heat range than the Autolite plug.
You would be amazed at how much better an engine will run with the correct spark plugs installed, but brand name has little do with this. It's more to do with heat range than any other factor. Factors such as outside temp, altitude, compression ratio, and the type of driving you do determine the temp range to run. You can run the coldest plug you can get by with.
A very slight loss of power is also an issue with plugs that are too cold, as well as possible difficulty in starting. However, you can have much more serious issues by running plugs with high temp ranges.
Keep the engine coolant temp as low as possible, but it is not a problem if it runs as high as 210 on very hot days, as long as it's consistent, and not climbing.
Never use pure antifreeze. A 50/50 mixture or even slightly less antifreeze will cool the engine better than a rich mixture of antifreeze. Get the temp down if possible, but don't worry if you can't get it below 210 on a hot summer day. The cooler you keep the engine, the lower the risk of detonation. Set engine idle at approx. 850-900, and never too far below this.
If your carburetor is not functioning correctly it can ruin your engine. If your carburetor size is more than one step in either direction from the recommended size, it can cause an imbalance in the fuel to air ratio, and be nearly impossible to tune.
Proper jetting is also a must. Never let the engine idle for excessively long periods during the break-in period.
Do not overfill with engine oil. Slightly less than normal is better than too much, in most cases.
When setting the carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine.
If you feel you can get by without a choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
Valve train maintenance.
Hydraulic roller cams are virtually maintenance free compared to a flat tappet setup.
Our recommendations will change from time to time. We never stop trying to build a better engine, and we learn from our own experiences and from feedback from our customers. We know there’s always room for improvement. We’re always working on research and development, as does any successful business. We advise checking out the recommendation section of our engine ads on a regular basis.
Why have we given such detailed information on our warranty and maintenance suggestions? Some customers bought our engines and did not fully understand our warranty and the maintenance needs of the engines.
Not knowing is understandable, but failing to educate yourself on the do's and don'ts is asking for problems. We suggest joining a few good car forums, as they have a wealth of great information.
However, beware of individuals on forums who think they know it all, and really know very little. Do your research using several sources, and be sure to read between the lines.
Your engine booklet will include the balance sheet and other information on this engine such as, cam card, and your invoice will show your personal selection of the options offered. Misty Moore is in charge of the production of this booklet. We usually mail this out prior to shipping the engine. Should you fail to receive this, feel free to contact Misty at 423-722-5152.
THIS ENGINE USES THE BEST PARTS. WE’VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE’RE 100% CONVINCED WE ARE OFFERING A FAR BETTER VALUE.
Many have asked why we’re able to sell such an engine for such a great price. It’s because we’re also a major distribution center for all of the parts used in this engine, as well as a full scale machine shop. Our purchase price for the parts used in this and all of our engines are at master warehouse distributor (WD) pricing. Few machine shops ever get to master-wd pricing. We also believe in keeping our profit levels low enough to allow the working man a chance to build his car the way it should be built.
The machinists doing our engine work each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is performed to exacting specs with great care. Of course, some vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have.
Your selection of what type transmission you’re going to use with your new engine is very important. I'm going to give you the real lowdown on what transmissions I recommend, as well as the ones I would stay away from. For those building a very mild, (detuned) street rod, (small cam choice, dual plane intake) these recommendations are not as critical.
700R4: Worst possible transmission choice.
TH350: Best transmission choice, hands down.
4L60E Electronically controlled trans.
Four and five speed Manual Trans.
A final note.
Our eBay user id is: skipwhite, and our eBay store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White" We are the original premier eBay seller under this name since approximately 2002. We have no other eBay names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance.
We are often asked if the Dart Sportsman block is able to handle high horse power builds. If you're building this for street and strip applications, then this block will handle most any build-up you do. 1200-1500 hp builds are not uncommon with this block. Durability and longevity with high horsepower builds are not a problem with the Dart Sportsman block. Nos, twin turbo, blower, high compression builds are also not a problem. The Dart Sportsman block should last a lifetime, even if built up to 1200 hp. You will also find this block used in many marine applications.
We have displayed many pictures of this engine at various angles. The turn key package looks great at any angle.
This engine uses a long style water pump. It is a much better design than the early model short style water pump. If you are unable to run the long style water pump due to interference issues with your radiator, let us know. Most vehicles will allow the use of the long style water pump as it only protrudes approx. 3/4 of an inch more than the short style.
Below is a somewhat straight down image. This is what you would see looking down into the engine bay. This is a very straightforward setup. Simple to work on or change and adjust belts or any of the accessories.
The images below show what the engine looks like before the front dress up kit is installed.
Note from Skip White, President.
I have reviewed similar 454/468 engines on the market, and I've found many of the parts used to be substandard and overpriced. When I use the term "substandard," I mean relative to the price charged. However, some sellers have parts in their engines that are prone to failure in our opinion. The machine work or lack thereof on many of these blocks may also pose a problem. Many vendors sell BBC engines at similar prices, but most of them use crusty old 454 blocks. These 30-40 year old blocks are past their prime and, even when they were new, made a very poor foundation for an engine generating double the original horsepower. If you see the term "seasoned block" in the build parts list of an engine, that is indicative of of an old junkyard block that's seen many hard miles.
The design differences in the Dart Sportsman block are very impressive and essential for high performance builds. The cylinder walls on the Dart block are nearly half an inch thick when bored to the range used in this engine, and will allow many future rebuilds. The old 454 blocks have much thinner cylinder walls, which are prone to cracking and do not handle heat well. Building a 454/468 with a stock GM block will not allow any future rebuilds, and is at a compromised level and prone to overheating issues.
The priority oiling system used in the Dart block is far superior to what GM had on the OE blocks. Many of the similar 496/505 engines on the market fail to say exactly what is used in their engine builds, or at best, will only give you brand names of the items such as oil pumps, gaskets, timing chain model, pistons, hardware, etc. Most of the items used in these engines are the lower cost version.
For the most part, many of the components used in our engines are far from the lowest cost version on the market. They are in the middle ground, or better. This is why I feel it necessary to mention all of the items in detail used in our engine, as I feel they make the difference in reliability and longevity.
If you want to make a true comparison, then you should request a full build sheet, including brand and the actual part number or description of all parts being used, from our competitors. Some of the items used in this engine are actually lower cost/lower grade, but have nothing to do with reliability or longevity of the engine. These lower cost items keep the price reasonable but do not compromise reliability.
For those wanting a higher horse power engine, see our other listings.
We have the most advanced machinery available on the market. Our Centroid DRX block and decking machine cost $80,000. We torque plate hone the cylinder walls using a state of the art Sunnen SV10 diamond hone. Very few shops have this model. It not only produces a superior bore finish that allows a faster break-in time, but it also creates a very straight and uniform finish with virtually no distortion or variance in the cyl. walls. This machine cost us approx. $60,000. Most of the very high end engine builders are now using this model.
Those offering high performance engines for sale and not disclosing what machines are used on them is unsettling to me. Many of our customers have asked if they can tour our shop before buying an engine, and we certainly welcome this. Pictured below are some of the many machines we have in action.
Do feel free to ask any questions you have about this engine. Our tech support line is 423-722-5152 or email us your questions using the contact tab associated with this ad.
Note on car forums.
A word about car forums, often a source of knowledge, confusion, and ignorance. We have good and bad press on the Procomp heads. There are significant errors in the bad press that can lead to a herd mentality and leave potential customers greatly misinformed or confused.
I was hesitant to write this but the time has come, and I have a good bit to say on the subject, so get your reading glasses on.
Seven to 10 years ago, Procomp did have a few issues in the developmental phase of their cylinder heads. We did very little business with them in the way of cyl. heads and noticed a few minor problems with them. That is when we chose heads from another supplier.
About 4 years ago, Procomp pleaded with us to check out their new much improved cyl. heads, so we did. We cut the cylinder heads in half, ran flow numbers, checked runner and combustion chamber sizes, guides, seats, casting quality, and fit, etc. We critiqued the BBC heads in every possible way and found them to be totally acceptable.
To be clear, we only feel this way about the Procomp big block heads, not their small block heads.
We performed extensive dynoing for our engine program. With our choice of hardware, these heads produced excellent results; far better than we expected. Problems with these heads have been few and far between. We would not be using them on this engine and warranty it for 2 years with unlimited mileage if there were any chance of problems developing.
Some problems experienced by others were caused by using low-grade or incorrect hardware. This is why we are very selective in our choice of hardware. In recent months, we have eliminated three hardware items that we suspected could cause potential long term problems, and we will continue to pay close attention to hardware and its effects on the heads.
As of 1/1/2013, we have sold at least 6,000 sets of these heads and I can promise you I can count on my fingers, and possibly a few toes, the heads that have had issues in the last 3 years.
Why do some forums over-hype the bad press concerning these heads? These heads certainly have good press as well as bad. Poor hardware used by many sellers was behind some of the complaints, but there are other reasons for the bad press.
Many forum members purchased high end cylinder heads instead of the lower cost Procomps thinking it was required for building a decent mid level street rod. They did so upon the advice of people who didn't really know what was suitable for their needs.
Some purchased the premium heads because they are able to afford the best and truly appreciate the finer aspects of a high end set of heads for use on engines built to a "Pro-street" level or close to it. This certainly makes good sense.
Some purchased the high end heads just for bragging rights or as a badge of honor. They have adorned the engine with a high end set of heads to impress others at car shows and on car forums. This is fairly common behavior, but many of these people feel compelled to criticize or belittle others using the lower cost products. They make disparaging comments about these people and the products they use with the sole intent to make the lower cost products seem less impressive. This behavior allows them to justify their somewhat foolish investment on high-end cylinder heads for a middle of the ground street rod.
This unjust criticism often leads to a herd mentality on the car forums. None of these people have any real knowledge of the Procomp heads. These make believe "high brows" are pretending to possess great intellectual knowledge, often sprouting flow numbers and jargon they really don't understand, and hope you don't. They often pretend to have engines making hp numbers about as accurate as the how much they bench pressed back before you knew them.
There are plenty of these on the car forums. They are quick to bring up the offshore origin of the Procomp heads, claiming that should be reason enough not to purchase them. Ironically, their illustrious high end heads are surrounded by a cornucopia of offshore parts, including items like Eagle or Scat cranks and rods, housed in a block possibly made in Mexico by GM, and dozens of other items made in a land far away.
You usually can't see these products when you look at their engine and they really don't want to talk about it, so don't ever ask them. Upon closer inspection of their high-end heads, you may find his ego in there somewhere, and therein lies the problem. At that point don't even mention Procomp cylinder heads being a decent product with excellent value.
Many of the offshore parts used in engines are totally acceptable and good quality. Some are not. We certainly know where to draw the line with offshore products, and we continue to draw that line by eliminating the use of parts that we once accepted but that may have potential problems sooner or later. In the rare event you have issues with our Procomp heads, the problem will be addressed.
I believe the high end head market has gained a larger than deserved foothold in the market place for the reasons stated above. So next time you visit a car forum, and I do recommend it, be sure to read between the lines, and feel free to share your experience with forum members.
This article is the result of my being fed up with so many distasteful people that troll the car forums. I won't be surprised to see it quoted on some of these forums.
NOTE: It is very important that you save your engine crate in the event that you need to return the engine to us for any reason. When the engine arrives, be sure to check the crate for any damage. If you notice any damage to the crate, then make note of this on the sign off sheet that the driver will ask you to sign, and take pictures while the driver is present if possible. This will assist us in making a claim for damages. We have made this engine crate nearly indestructible, but some freight companies have still managed to damage our engines. Please inspect the crate when it arrives, and do take pictures if you notice any damage.
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