BBC GZ Sportsman | Complete Vacuum Pump Kit | Street/Strip
$1,099.00
Available
When you're building or fine-tuning a high-performance engine, every part matters. A vacuum pump is one of those power-adders that can make a real difference. By pulling excess air, oil vapor, and pressure out of the crankcase, it improves ring seal and reduces drag, freeing up horsepower that would've been lost to windage. Plus, it helps keep your oil cleaner and your engine breathing better. If you're serious about performance, adding a vacuum pump to the setup is a smart move—just what you need to keep everything running tight and fast.
Can be used on driver or passenger side.
Everything you need in one box
- VP102 22 cfm Sportsman Vacuum Pump
- 4.5" OD V belt vacuum pump pulley
- CP Series fixed single groove crank pulley
- BT3 aluminum baffled breather tank
- -10 AN clear braided vacuum hose
- Hose for one valve cover
- -10 Fragola Push-Lite AN fittings for one valve cover
- Dayton top cog belt
- VCV101B vacuum control valve
- UPVM style mounting bracket, spacers and mounting bolts
Features
- Polished Aluminum Case
- -10 AN Fragola fittings
- Carbon Fiber Vanes
- Rulon Wipers
- Manufactured in the USA 🇺🇸
- Long lived pump, oil mist pass-through system.
- NO requirement for cleaning before each trip to the racetrack.
- Tested to ensure quality on a "pump dyno" with a vacuum gauge and a volumetric gauge on the suction side.
- Test vacuum @3500 rpm and date of assembly are noted on the front of the pump
Skip White Performance Testimonial
We use a vacuum pump kit for our in-house dyno testing. The vacuum pump kit in the picture shown above has been used to test over 1,200 engines over four years and is still going strong.
What makes GZ Pumps Different?
While most vacuum pumps may appear to work the same, the fact is that there are major differences on the inside, where it counts. The recently redesigned Pro Racing Vacuum Pump is a purpose-built pump specifically designed for the hot, wet, and oily environment found in race car crankcase vapors.
An all-new die-casting, only available from GZ Motorsports, forms the core of the new pump with much closer tolerances than previous models, enhancing its airflow potential. Closer tolerances in the new die-casting allow the Pro Pump to generate 26% more airflow than similar-sized competitors' pumps! Updates also include improved and beefed-up port locations, totally rebuild-able bearing sections, and long-life wipers.
As with all GZ Vacuum Pumps, Rulon Wipers are still used exclusively, as Rulon is the best material we've found to use for tough, hot, and oily applications. In fact, this pump can suck in and spit out anything but metal without sticking! In fact, recent durability testing we've conducted with our new extended life wipers proved that this pump can run 500 hours at 3500 RPM with a light oil mist and still maintain full vacuum! Compare that service life with any other brand pump and you'll find nothing else comes close to lasting that long.
With GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pumps, there is no need to spray brake cleaner into the pump between rounds to keep the internal vanes from sticking, a necessity with all other brands of pumps because they aren't designed to run in an oily atmosphere. Unlike the others, GZ pumps use a proven vane design that doesn't stick!
Quieter Operation... Want to run a vacuum pump on a street car? You don't want an annoying click-click-click to give away what you have under the hood. GZ Motorsports vacuum pumps are much quieter than the competition. Their pumps make a loud clicking sound as they rotate when they work correctly. GZ operates quietly and stealthily under your hood without annoying clicks.
GZMS pumps are manufactured in our shop in Glencoe, CA. After assembly, each pump is tested on our pump dyno at 3500 rpm. During testing, Red Line racing oil is run through them, so when you get your pump you will see "blackened" oil at the inlet and outlet ports. This is normal and due to the break-in process. GZMS vacuum pumps all show the test vacuum and date tested on the part sticker on the pump.
Technical Information
GZMS vacuum pumps are designed to have oil pass through them and require oil for lubrication of the wipers at the vanes. Experience has shown that synthetic oil yields a longer pump life. A dry pump will wear out prematurely due to friction between the Rulon wipers and the carbon fiber vanes.
GZMS vacuum pumps are warranted for one year with proper use. If a pump is returned that has been run dry, any warranty is void.
GZMS products are installed and used by others; no warranty is made as to the use of products regarding performance or safety. Motorsports are inherently dangerous. The user of GZMS products assumes all potential risks in using those products.
Pulley ratio is typically 64% of crankshaft speed. This is generated by using a 3.5" Crankshaft Pulley and a 5.5" Pump Pulley unless noted otherwise with a maximum pump rpm of 6000. GZMS Sportsman vacuum pumps are successfully run at higher RPMs; however, this is not recommended.
GZ Motorsports pumps may pull in excess of 20 in. hg. of vacuum; therefore, a vacuum relief valve is likely necessary.
Please consult your engine builder for the proper vacuum level for your engine. If you're not sure how much to run, it is generally considered safe to limit total vacuum to 10 - 12 in. hg., but there are varying opinions on running more than that, depending on engine setup, possible oil pressure drop, etc. Many competition engine builders will run up to or over 20" when the engine is designed for those levels.
For high output power adder engines, we highly recommend the use of a data logger to monitor vacuum levels down-track. In general, vacuum should increase the longer the engine runs, and as the engine RPM climbs. If piston rings start to have problems, such as if engine timing is excessive, a loss of vacuum tends to occur due to the increased blow by when ring seal is compromised. You may find a benefit to not running a vacuum relief valve at low levels in this situation if you want to observe this occurring, as a relief valve may mask this early warning signal that may be caught by a data logger of ring seal issues.
In all-out competition, where engines are run on the edge, closely setting pump RPM to limit vacuum to the level desired may be preferable to limiting vacuum with a relief valve in order to help observe ring seal problems. This is something that should be discussed with your engine builder and or tuner.
The vacuum your engine will make is dependent on the amount of blow by it generates and any air leaks it may have. No two engines are identical.
Ring Packages such as low tension rings typically generate an increase in ring blow by requiring a larger, or faster spinning pump.
Power Adders such as Nitrous Oxide, Superchargers, and Turbochargers all increase cylinder pressure generating increased ring blow by requiring a larger or faster spinning pump. The amount of Nitrous you are spraying, or the amount of boost you are generating increases the needs for a larger or faster spinning pump. Large Displacement engines typically generate proportionately larger amounts of blow by.
The use of alcohol, especially in a "rich" condition, generally reduces net vacuum and could require a slightly larger pump than a gasoline engine.
Vacuum leaks in the crankcase, valve covers, distributor base, timing chain cover, oil dipstick, etc., reduce the amount of vacuum you will generate. You can easily check your engine by pressurizing it with air. Be careful though, you don't need much to find leaks and you could damage gaskets and seals.
If you are going to continue to use a dipstick, consider removing the dipstick while running the car and covering the dipstick tube opening with a rubber vacuum plug to seal the tube off. That way you can eliminate leakage, but still pull the plug and check your oil level when need be.
All engines are different depending on how fresh they are, how much ring end gap is used, cylinder prep, and ring design. This is a general guide based on typical engines GZMS has fitted over the years as well as customer reports.
🛠️ Skip's Guide to GZMS Vacuum Pumps
GZMS makes a solid vacuum pump, but like anything mechanical, it needs some TLC to keep running smooth. Let me break it down for you.
🛢️ The Oil Factor: Keep That Pump Slick!
These GZMS vacuum pumps are designed to let a little oil flow through 'em, and trust me, that oil’s their lifeblood. It's gotta be there to lubricate those wipers at the vanes, or you're looking at some serious wear and tear. Now, here's a little tip from ol' Skip: synthetic oil tends to give those pumps a longer life. Run 'em dry, though? You're asking for trouble. The friction between those Rulon wipers and the carbon fiber vanes will chew things up faster than you can say "rebuild."
Warranty Warning: Don't Run 'Em Dry
GZMS stands behind their vacuum pumps with a one-year warranty, but let me tell you—if you run that pump dry, kiss that warranty goodbye. They’ll know if it’s been run dry, and you’ll be out of luck. So, keep the oil flowing and your wallet happy.
Pulley Ratios and RPM Limits
Here’s where things get technical. Typically, you’re looking at running that pulley at 64% of crankshaft speed. That’s usually achieved by using a 3.5" Crankshaft Pulley paired with a 5.5" Pump Pulley. But listen, don’t push that pump past 6000 RPM. Sure, some folks get away with running those Sportsman vacuum pumps faster, but that’s risky business. Stick to the recommended limits unless you like living on the edge.
Managing Vacuum Levels
These GZMS pumps can pull more than 20 inches of mercury (in. hg.) in vacuum, so you’ll likely need a vacuum relief valve.
Not sure how much vacuum to run? Well, safe bet is to keep it around 10 to 12 in. hg., but talk to your engine builder—opinions vary.
Some competition engines run over 20 in. hg., but that’s when the motor’s built to handle it. Don’t push it unless you know what you’re doing.
đź“Š Data Loggers: Your Down-Track Detective
For those high-output, power-adder engines, get yourself a data logger. It’s gonna track those vacuum levels when you’re roaring down the track. You should see vacuum increase as your RPMs climb.
If you see it drop off suddenly, you could have a ring seal problem. And let me tell you, sometimes not having a vacuum relief valve helps you spot those early warning signs of trouble, especially if you're logging the data.
Fine-Tuning Vacuum Levels
When you’re in full-blown competition mode, fine-tuning the pump RPM might be better than relying on a relief valve.
The idea is to help spot any ring seal issues as they come up. Again, have a chat with your engine builder or tuner before making any big changes.
🔩 Every Engine is Unique
Every engine’s got its quirks, and no two are the same. The amount of blow-by, the air leaks, they all factor in.
If you’re running low-tension rings or power adders like nitrous, superchargers, or turbos, expect more blow-by. That means you might need a bigger or faster-spinning pump.
🍺 Alcohol Fuel: A Different Beast
Running alcohol? That’s gonna throw another wrench in the works. Alcohol, especially when running rich, tends to lower the vacuum, so you might need a bigger pump than if you were running gasoline.
🔍 Finding Leaks: The Air Test
Here’s a little trick: pressurize the engine with air and check for leaks in the crankcase, valve covers, distributor base, timing chain cover, and dipstick tube.
Don’t overdo it—too much pressure, and you’ll blow out a gasket or seal.
🔧 Sealing the Dipstick Tube
If you’re still using a dipstick (and why wouldn’t you be?), you might want to pull it out when running the car.
Pop a rubber vacuum plug over the tube to seal it off, but leave it so you can still check your oil. It’s a small thing, but it’ll help keep your vacuum strong.
🛠️ Every Build is Different
At the end of the day, engines vary. Everything from how fresh they are, the ring end gap, cylinder prep, and ring design can affect how much vacuum you’re gonna pull.
This here’s just a guide based on years of working with GZMS products and hearing from customers in the trenches.
⚠️ A Word of Caution: No Guarantees
Now, GZMS makes good products, but motorsports, as we all know, is a wild ride. They’re not gonna guarantee performance or safety—just part of the deal when you’re in this game. You take on all the risks when you're pushing the limits of your engine.
Attention Valued Customers!
When it comes to highly technical questions, our sales team at Skip White Performance might not always have the detailed answers you're looking for, especially on topics like installation procedures or tuning.
For those with detailed or specific questions, we strongly recommend checking out automotive forums and communities where these products are frequently discussed. These forums are a treasure trove of information and can provide the expert advice you need. Additionally, YouTube has countless tutorials and guides that walk you through the installation process and other technical details.
Please note: While we're here to provide top-notch products, we cannot be held responsible for any damage resulting from the use or installation of this product. Make sure to do your research and proceed with caution!
Thank you for choosing Skip White Performance!
Disclaimer
Skip White Performance is not liable for any collateral damage or incidental issues arising from the use or misuse of our products. High-performance parts are intended for experienced professionals and enthusiasts. Use at your own risk.Product Information
UPC | BBC-SVPBK103C |
---|---|
Product Type | Shipped Product |
Price (excl. tax) | $1,099.00 |
Price (incl. tax) | $1,099.00 |
Tax | $0.00 |
Availability | Available |
Shipping Cost | 17.0 |
Brand | GZ Motorsports |
Engine Block | BBC |
Number of reviews | 0 |
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